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Posted by FMD on June 8, 2007 at 9:47:30 pm EDT
In reply to clove hitch for tie in's posted by FMD on June 8, 2007 at 11:24:32 am EDT

Brain: The back up for a munter hitch is a mule knot. I use the munter as a power point tie in. As I am sure you know, the munter is used for belaying and rapping. I use it as a power point tie in knot also with a mule knot. This way, if a beginner climber is stuck on a rappel or climb, you are able to lower the climber down without having to go down after the climber. For belaying, it is easy to tie a mule knot above the munter and escape a belay if needed.

Back to the clove hitch. I searched in several books that I have, On Rope, Freedom of the Hill, Self Rescue (Falcon book) and a TRSM book and the only thing I found for usage on a clove hitch was on pg. 173 in Freedom of the Hills. There was some small mention in the other books on tying the knot. There is a picture in Freedom of the Hills book showing a BELAYER tie in. I have done this many times before and I am comfortable with this. I am tied in and am hanging over the edge so that I can see my climber. In this senerio, the hitch is tensioned and I can see the hitch at all times. This is acceptable. However, my climber is anchored to either two draws, two slings equalized or a cordellete. What I am quesioning here is not the strength of the hitch but that the "cycling" of the rope could loosen up the hitches as a climber advances up.

I did call Adam Fox after I posted this and it was suggested that the clove hitch should be used for in situations as litter packaging, belay stations and places where it can be minded and under tension.

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• Re: clove hitch for tie in's - Brian in SLC 18:24:08 06/12/2007

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