Campus Training for Rock Climbing

1:29 p.m. on January 30, 2013 (EST)
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This is a campus board training routine I have been performing and have been adding onto for the last 6 months. It involves strength and endurance training on easy and difficult rungs. Using this routine has helped me to boulder my first v10 and hopefully harder problems in the future. This is only my perspective of training for rock climbing and may not be suitable for others' training standards or needs. ALL CAUTION SHOULD BE TAKEN BEFORE PERFORMING CAMPUS RUNG EXERCISES AS IT COULD BE DANGEROUS AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY! 

10:29 p.m. on February 1, 2013 (EST)
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I don't get it. You're showing yourself using the racks the way they are meant to be used, to build strength. No special moves or techniques. Every other climber at that gym uses them the same way - what's different here? 

While I can appreciate the amount of strength required, it strikes me as kind of like posting a video showing how many chinups you can do.  

5:29 a.m. on February 2, 2013 (EST)
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Fair enough for you to assume this but I have helped and encouraged many climbers at my gym to use them. Most don't use them and don't understand the benefits you can receive by using them. I didnt start out able to do all of these i had to work up to it. I guess it's also for motivation, I want to pass on something I used that made me strong and improved my climbing ability. If I was doing it to show off I would've took myshirt off and zoomed in on my abs or something

1:53 a.m. on March 10, 2013 (EST)
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Hey I have a quick question ? I boulder at my indoor climbing gym a lot recently.  I have attempted the campus board once and I can't seem be able to hang on to the first hold any suggestion for building up the hand strength to start campusing ( or what ever they say when referring to using a campus board ). Any help would be a appreciated.

 

11:57 a.m. on March 10, 2013 (EDT)
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I recommend doing pull-ups on a hangboard (metolius, DRCC, and others are good for beginner to intermediate) using the various pockets and holds.  Try keeping your hands at the open position when doing pull-ups.  This will increase your finger strength for campus board exercises as well as overall upper body strength.  Hope this helps!

5:18 p.m. on March 10, 2013 (EDT)
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Thanks 

10:35 p.m. on March 10, 2013 (EDT)
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Gavin Clarke said:

I have attempted the campus board once and I can't seem be able to hang on to the first hold any suggestion for building up the hand strength to start campusing...

Finger strength should be built up gradually.  The muscles and tendons involved are all pretty delicate.  These activities place a lot of strain on these body parts.  If you attempt to build up strength too quickly, you can end up with tendentious or some other repetitive motion injury.  So take your time - like a year - to attain that level of strength.  Once you have this strength protect your investment, and maintain it at some level.  This is not a strength you can work on seasonally, it is just too hard on your body to expect you can push it without already being toughened up, unless you want to risk injury.

I prefer using a outdoor handball or squash ball to work on finger strength, as described in my original post.  I used to have these balls at my desk at work, by the couch at home, and in my car.  In other words you work on finger strength all the time, but at a lower intensity than encountered doing finger pull-ups.

Ed

August 2, 2014
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