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So this question is purely for folks who have practiced or who have field use of the z-pully system.
I have practiced it plenty at home and set it up with confidence. I also practice it on the mountain with my partner while roped together to get the lovely feeling of another person hanging off me while trying to anchor them safely. I have done this successfully and hauled him back up to me.
Here's my question -
On the rope between me and my partner, for glacial travel, we have the standard set up with prussicks for our feet and harness if we needed to self rescue out of a crevasse.
When I stop my partners fall and then place my snow protection, would it be sensible to then use what would be my foot prussick to anchor the fallen climbers weight onto the snow protection instead of worrying about tying a new prussick while also holding his weight?
Also, my partner and I both noticed that once tied and loaded to the anchor, the prussick tends to get jammed next to the butterfly knot that we used to tie into the rope.
Is a different knot better here? Our rescue process was slowed by a couple of minutes while we needed to undo the heavily loaded butterfly knot that now also has a prussick cozied up beside it.
I guess if it came down to it we'd still be able to do the rescue, but I'm wondering if we can speed it up.