Question about z-pully system

3:36 p.m. on February 12, 2014 (EST)
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So this question is purely for folks who have practiced or who have field use of the z-pully system.

I have practiced it plenty at home and set it up with confidence. I also practice it on the mountain with my partner while roped together to get the lovely feeling of another person hanging off me while trying to anchor them safely. I have done this successfully and hauled him back up to me.

Here's my question -

On the rope between me and my partner, for glacial travel, we have the standard set up with prussicks for our feet and harness if we needed to self rescue out of a crevasse.

When I stop my partners fall and then place my snow protection, would it be sensible to then use what would be my foot prussick to anchor the fallen climbers weight onto the snow protection instead of worrying about tying a new prussick while also holding his weight?

Also, my partner and I both noticed that once tied and loaded to the anchor, the prussick tends to get jammed next to the butterfly knot that we used to tie into the rope.

Is a different knot better here? Our rescue process was slowed by a couple of minutes while we needed to undo the heavily loaded butterfly knot that now also has a prussick cozied up beside it.

I guess if it came down to it we'd still be able to do the rescue, but I'm wondering if we can speed it up.

4:12 p.m. on February 12, 2014 (EST)
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iClimb,

There are several good videos on the net that show set-up of a Z and C-Z rescue system.

I am guessing that your "standard set up with prussicks" is a Texas Kick arrangement with the leg loops already attached to the rope with a prussick. Pretty much standard practice is to place your first anchor (commonly a dead-manned picket) and attach one of your leg loops to the picket. You will have some slack in the leg loop attached to the anchor, and then can slide the prussick knot down to make that first anchor fully tensioned. This lets you escape the belay and place the second, back-up anchor (a second picket, fluke, or something else you can dead-man), clipping the other leg loop to it. You now have a fully backed anchor and can proceed to set up the Z.

From your comment, I wonder if you are placing the prussick for the leg loops on the rope between you as you should. If you have, and are placing the first anchor correctly, you should have some slack to allow you to slide the prussick away from the anchor, toward the victim, thus providing the tension needed for the anchor. I am having a hard time visualizing how the prussick if placed properly on the belay rope between you and your partner could jam against the butterfly.

5:16 p.m. on February 12, 2014 (EST)
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Thanks bill, I was having a hard time figuring out why it happened as well. My guess is the slack that you have talked about wasn't in the system. as I have thought about it today I think that the Prussick with the leg loops had worked itself down the Rope towards my partner and away from me so when I caught his fall the Prussick actually pulled tight and I was holding my partner on the rope via the Prussick rather than by the knot clipped to my harness.

Is there any way to keep the prussick from sliding down the Rope towards my partner below me on the slope so I don't lose that slack? I think I tightened it but I may not have.

3:18 p.m. on February 13, 2014 (EST)
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We reviewed our technique and I think what we're going to do is use a tIbloc for the connecting foot Prussick instead of just a prussick knot itself. that will allow us to prevent the prussick knot tightening against anything because the tibloc would be easier to move

September 2, 2014
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