SLC

11:00 a.m. on April 17, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

We're planning a little adventure to BCC & LCC for Memorial Weekend. I know there are several CG's in both canyons, but which one(s) should we shoot for? Are there any free sites close to decent rock? Brian?

Also, any beta on beta on Pentapitch and Gate Buttress area would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Scott

1:38 p.m. on April 17, 2002 (EDT)
0 reviewer rep
408 forum posts
beta-r-us...

Quote:

We're planning a little adventure to BCC & LCC for Memorial Weekend. I know there are several CG's in both canyons, but which one(s) should we shoot for? Are there any free sites close to decent rock? Brian?

Dunno. I don't camp here...har har...

Only real option in LCC would be Tanners and I think it may still be closed thru memorial day. Not sure. Overnight spots in BCC would probably be the best option (Spruces?). Folks do bandit camp. But...canyon patrol watches for cars and does late night jaunts so...best to get off and up a trail a ways. They don't think its funny when they catch you campin' at your car. Both canyons see a bit of the usual miscreant type activity so be aware of that.

Not any close "legal" sites to decent rock. I'd highly highly unrecommend trying to camp especially in LCC near climable rock near the gate buttress. This is private land and access is always an issue. Not a bunch of places to pull over and park either (ie hard to be low profile).

Best bet is to surf up the Wasatch-Cache National Forest website and surf thru the campin' options. Not that far to drive to LCC from BCC. And some great climbing up BCC.

Quote:

Also, any beta on beta on Pentapitch and Gate Buttress area would be much appreciated.

Pentapitch might be a tad nip in May (or not!). On the south side (shady) of the canyon. Super climb. Highly recommended. Do Sasquatch if you like 5.9 finger cracks. Best thin 5.9 pitch in the canyon, IMO (Coffin Crack is the best 5.9 in the canyon overall). Some of the other variations of Pentapitch are fun if you have time. Japanese Terraces, etc etc. 5.11a friction option left of the 1st pitch is fun. Take two ropes to get off the last pitch. Rap down to the large ledge and hike into the gully to the west. A bunch easier than it looks but please don't slip and fall. Creek flow may be rippin' but "might" not be too bad (will still be some runoff). Is some sports climbs up creek gully but might still be wet in May. Or not. Also, to the right of the Great White Icicle is a fun craggin' area with a couple of classics: Daddy Long legs (finish straight up second pitch is fun and more spicy but easier option to the right is fun too) and Rivers Edge (if you like mystery friction on glass but pro is ok at crux, a bit run to get to though). Not as popular area so won't be near as crowded.

Gate: crown jewel in LCC to be sure. I'll bet I've climbed Schoolroom and Bushwack Crack a zillion times each, up to 8 times a year for goin' on 18 years. Schoolroom West is super too. Schoolroom Direct is a funner option than the regular first pitch if you don't mind a short spicy move of 5.7 friction with your pro a bit below you. You can run the first and second pitch together but might be easier to break into two. The second pitch (5.6 left facing crack) of Schoolroom has to be one of the best single pitches of 5.6 I've climbed anywhere. Off width chimney pitch is fun. I could spoil the fun and give you beta on how to do it but suffice to say, be creative...! Do the Hook from the top of Bushwack. Be afraid of the Hook Direct (I led in 85 and haven't been near since! Sucker is scary...). Or get to the hook from Mind Blow (thin!). Don't miss Satan's Corner (I usually lead as one pitch but some folks break into two), Lisa's Shoulder, Beckey's Wall and depending on the grades you climb, Black and White John and Mary and Equip right and left. Hornets Rest is fun. Tarzan (directly up or Sweet Jane...) is super and continue up Tingey's for a bunch of fun friction shallow crack pitches. Hatchet Crack is super. Green A, Kermits, Gordons, Touch up, Cranial, Smittys, Paranoia etc etc etc etc. Gate can be warmish in the middle of the day as its south facing and totally exposed to the sun.

Let me know what your interested in and I'd be happy to spray away...climbed at the gate a couple weeks ago but now is snowy...so...

Fun!

Brian in SLC

4:54 p.m. on April 24, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

Thanks alot, Brian (n/t)

Quote:

Quote:

We're planning a little adventure to BCC & LCC for Memorial Weekend. I know there are several CG's in both canyons, but which one(s) should we shoot for? Are there any free sites close to decent rock? Brian?

Dunno. I don't camp here...har har...

Only real option in LCC would be Tanners and I think it may still be closed thru memorial day. Not sure. Overnight spots in BCC would probably be the best option (Spruces?). Folks do bandit camp. But...canyon patrol watches for cars and does late night jaunts so...best to get off and up a trail a ways. They don't think its funny when they catch you campin' at your car. Both canyons see a bit of the usual miscreant type activity so be aware of that.

Not any close "legal" sites to decent rock. I'd highly highly unrecommend trying to camp especially in LCC near climable rock near the gate buttress. This is private land and access is always an issue. Not a bunch of places to pull over and park either (ie hard to be low profile).

Best bet is to surf up the Wasatch-Cache National Forest website and surf thru the campin' options. Not that far to drive to LCC from BCC. And some great climbing up BCC.

Quote:

Also, any beta on beta on Pentapitch and Gate Buttress area would be much appreciated.

Pentapitch might be a tad nip in May (or not!). On the south side (shady) of the canyon. Super climb. Highly recommended. Do Sasquatch if you like 5.9 finger cracks. Best thin 5.9 pitch in the canyon, IMO (Coffin Crack is the best 5.9 in the canyon overall). Some of the other variations of Pentapitch are fun if you have time. Japanese Terraces, etc etc. 5.11a friction option left of the 1st pitch is fun. Take two ropes to get off the last pitch. Rap down to the large ledge and hike into the gully to the west. A bunch easier than it looks but please don't slip and fall. Creek flow may be rippin' but "might" not be too bad (will still be some runoff). Is some sports climbs up creek gully but might still be wet in May. Or not. Also, to the right of the Great White Icicle is a fun craggin' area with a couple of classics: Daddy Long legs (finish straight up second pitch is fun and more spicy but easier option to the right is fun too) and Rivers Edge (if you like mystery friction on glass but pro is ok at crux, a bit run to get to though). Not as popular area so won't be near as crowded.

Gate: crown jewel in LCC to be sure. I'll bet I've climbed Schoolroom and Bushwack Crack a zillion times each, up to 8 times a year for goin' on 18 years. Schoolroom West is super too. Schoolroom Direct is a funner option than the regular first pitch if you don't mind a short spicy move of 5.7 friction with your pro a bit below you. You can run the first and second pitch together but might be easier to break into two. The second pitch (5.6 left facing crack) of Schoolroom has to be one of the best single pitches of 5.6 I've climbed anywhere. Off width chimney pitch is fun. I could spoil the fun and give you beta on how to do it but suffice to say, be creative...! Do the Hook from the top of Bushwack. Be afraid of the Hook Direct (I led in 85 and haven't been near since! Sucker is scary...). Or get to the hook from Mind Blow (thin!). Don't miss Satan's Corner (I usually lead as one pitch but some folks break into two), Lisa's Shoulder, Beckey's Wall and depending on the grades you climb, Black and White John and Mary and Equip right and left. Hornets Rest is fun. Tarzan (directly up or Sweet Jane...) is super and continue up Tingey's for a bunch of fun friction shallow crack pitches. Hatchet Crack is super. Green A, Kermits, Gordons, Touch up, Cranial, Smittys, Paranoia etc etc etc etc. Gate can be warmish in the middle of the day as its south facing and totally exposed to the sun.

Let me know what your interested in and I'd be happy to spray away...climbed at the gate a couple weeks ago but now is snowy...so...

Fun!

Brian in SLC

1:21 p.m. on May 15, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

Re: beta-r-us...

The extension to Tingey's Terror is Tingey's Torture. It's a worthwhile 8 pitches or so (combined) up the right side of the Gate Buttress, and can now be descended off the right side using a single 60-meter rope.

July 28, 2014
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