We climbed Tarzan at the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah the other day and I was wondering if anybody had grade info for the bolted route just to the right of Tarzan/Sweet Jane.
Thanks in advance,
Well, we went and climbed it. Its a friction route that needs to be cleaned of exfoliating flakes before a real rating can be established. My guess is about the 5.10a/b range.
The route can be started from below the start of Tarzan, once you make the greasy moves to gain the butress right off the trail, don't traverse left to Satan's corner. Instead head up and slightly left until you gain a left facing crack/large flake.
Place a #2 or/and #3 camelot in the left facing crack, and a #10 stopper above the flake to gain the bolted face above. Don't count on the fixed pin above the flake, it was loose and came out with a slight tug. (Plus, the webbing was crap.)
This route featured an exciting 25 foot runout on friable flakes to a tree belay (the start of Tingeys?) which we avoided by continuing up Tarzan after the third to last bolt. (Somebody finish this route please, there was no indication of a work in progress.)
This could be a good route if it saw some traffic and the bolting continued to the belay.
(BTW, Cheetah lost a nubbin today right above the crux chickenhead.)