trango alpine equalizer

11:15 a.m. on October 16, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

Can anyone comment on the trango alpine equalizer? Looks like it equalizes great, but doesnt prevent extension and shock-loading if one piece fails. Seems if you tie knots in each arm, the equalization advantage is gone. Am I missing something?

6:20 p.m. on October 17, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

Very interesting! In the past few days, I have been comparing Trango Equalizer with Metolius belay-o-lette, and the web-o-lette by Mt Tools. Can anyone out there provide us any pros and cons in comparison of these two types? Very thanks.

Loco

Quote:

Can anyone comment on the trango alpine equalizer? Looks like it equalizes great, but doesnt prevent extension and shock-loading if one piece fails. Seems if you tie knots in each arm, the equalization advantage is gone. Am I missing something?

10:17 a.m. on October 22, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

My $.24

Quote:

Can anyone comment on the trango alpine equalizer? Looks like it equalizes great, but doesnt prevent extension and shock-loading if one piece fails. Seems if you tie knots in each arm, the equalization advantage is gone. Am I missing something?

You are correct, it does not prevent extension. From what I gather, 3 pieces only must be used for the anchor. There are ways around this though. Tying extension knots would prevent extension problem but you would lose the true self equalizing property. It would still be static equalized though like a simple 7mm cordelette. I am amazed at how many climbers: professionals, guides, manufactures and chabonis who know nothing or do not understand this saftey issue with anchors.


Quote:

Very interesting! In the past few days, I have been comparing Trango Equalizer with Metolius belay-o-lette, and the web-o-lette by Mt Tools. Can anyone out there provide us any pros and cons in comparison of these two types? Very thanks.

Both the MT and Met are nice, light, simple, compact but there is only a single strand of webbing on 2 pieces of your anchor, not as strong as having 2 strands like a simple 7mm cordelette. Double master-point loops afford one to be used as a directional upward pull. The apex above the master point can not be used with B52, Reverso, GiGi in auto-lock mode as is guiding but will work OK with the mater-point as long as the master-point is higher than your waist. Both afford static equalization only. All 3 of these can not be cut up for rap anchors (Met is avail in nylon webbing as well as spectra). Spectra breaks down, fast over time, nylon last much longer. I have them and use them mostly for TR anchors whilst guiding and back up the single arms but mostly I use a simple 7mm cordelette instead. The cordelette provides a nice area at the apex above the master-point to use a B52 in the auto mode for guiding. It can be cut up for rap anchors. Super cheap. Last long time. Works.

Instead of an overhand or Fig knot in a cordelette, I use with a sliding X for 90% of all climbing as it it truely self equalized. This can be done with 3 pieces too.

Belay-Off
Ice Dawg
Obsession + Compulsion = Addicted

12:07 a.m. on November 22, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Here's a dirty little secret: You can't be SERENE.

It is impossible for an anchor to be at once equalized AND non-extending.

Before you howl, think about it: the slop that is necessary to achieve equalization for a force other than in one exactly perfect direction will result in extension if one of the anchors pulls. Even tying into the ends of two bolted chains will have only one equalized angle of pull, and even then if one chain pulls the other will swing a little and result in "extension". Moral: when you set each and every anchor you will have to make a judgement as to the balance between being equalized over a wide range of possible force angles OR limiting the amount of possible extension should an anchor fail.

Don't blame it on the Alpine Equalizer (even though I personally think a perlon cordelette is a much better option).

6:39 p.m. on January 21, 2003 (EST)
(Guest)

I hear ya

Quote:

Quote:

Obsession + Compulsion = Addicted tell me about it-I have huge gashes on my face from the dinner plate that met my face yesterday, but can't wait to get back on the ice! Thanks for the info on the "o-lettes"

10:40 p.m. on November 30, 2003 (EST)
(Guest)

Quote:

Here's a dirty little secret: You can't be SERENE.

It is impossible for an anchor to be at once equalized AND non-extending.

Before you howl, think about it: the slop that is necessary to achieve equalization for a force other than in one exactly perfect direction will result in extension if one of the anchors pulls. Even tying into the ends of two bolted chains will have only one equalized angle of pull, and even then if one chain pulls the other will swing a little and result in "extension". Moral: when you set each and every anchor you will have to make a judgement as to the balance between being equalized over a wide range of possible force angles OR limiting the amount of possible extension should an anchor fail.

Don't blame it on the Alpine Equalizer (even though I personally think a perlon cordelette is a much better option).


I am glad to see some people are finally catching on to some real fun physics.
Cordellettes are fine if the direction of force never changes. If it does you are now only weighing one piece and if it blows you will shock load the rest of the anchors and it would be damn near impossible for the remaining anchors to be loaded equally and simultaniously. The Alpine Equalizer is designed to be used with 1, 2, or 3 piece anchors (you can get creative and add more). If a piece blows it self equalizes and the movement through the remaining pieces causes extension and also absorbs some of the impact as it extends. Another added feture is it is less prone to human error (mis tied knots, open carabiner gates) and it saves weight and bulk.
Of course I am somewhat biased as I did the R and D for this for 6 six years. I personally pull tested samples rigged with 3 points and took them to over 9000 LBS (5/8" spectra with SMC aluminum rappel rings. In all my tests with Self Equalizing Anchors I have never seen one blow additional pieces while extending, and I even did a 8 point anchor and cut away one at a time all the way down to 2 with a 1200 LB load. (That was tied with a 10mm climbing rope) I have been using many versions of this since 1994.

December 26, 2014
Quick Reply

Please sign in to reply

 
More Topics
This forum: Older: Suffocating in sleep Newer: Good starter rack for rock climbing?
All forums: Older: non-stink clothes? Newer: BD Black Prophet Carbon Pair for $300