Winter Mountaineering

10:56 p.m. on December 12, 2006 (EST)
(Guest)

a.k.a. Ryan

What is truely the best way to move on snowy slopes with a 2 member team. With or without rope? Im thinking avalanche and Im thinking the only safety with rope would be resque from axe to snow. Whats the smartest way to move

7:48 p.m. on December 13, 2006 (EST)
0 reviewer rep
408 forum posts

"What is truely the best way to move on snowy slopes with a 2 member team. With or without rope? Im thinking avalanche and Im thinking the only safety with rope would be resque from axe to snow. Whats the smartest way to move"

Depends (tm). I think folks would routinely employ a rope, winter or summer, if you were worried about crevasses, ie, for glacier travel.

If you weren't on a glacier, then you might employ a rope if the terrain and your (and your partner's) experience demanded it. For instance, if the "snow" you were on was interspersed with ice, and, you were placing running protection to guard against any fall. Or it was steep enough that a fall would be bad. Again, though, pro might be required.

A rope wouldn't be a help in an avalanche. Might actually be a hinderance.

Personally, I'm not sure I'd want to be roped to someone on a steep snow slope, avy conditions or not. Would also depend on the snow conditions and whether or not you thought you could arrest a partner.

Pretty common that folks get pulled off whilst climbing, both when their partner falls, and when they get entrained in moving snow. Neither situation would be great.

What scenario are you thinking of, and where?

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

September 19, 2014
Quick Reply

Please sign in to reply

 
More Topics
This forum: Older: Evolv Newer: I hope the 3 climbers are found on Mt. Hood
All forums: Older: Q&A: Who Makes the Longest Sleeping Bags? Newer: trail runners/light hikers