The seasons of the Tetons

Hello,

I am considering climbing in the Tetons some time on 2002. My partner has limited windows of opportunity and I wanted to get some better information on conditions during the spring. Our most opportune time based on his schedule is April/May. We had originally planned for a summer climb, and I had planned on hitting the Owen-Spalding route using the Wittich Crack.

So my question is, what kind of conditions should we expect in April/May (I'm going to push for late May) and would there be a better route for that time of year?

Karl Sumwalt
Bel Air, MD

Quote:

I am considering climbing in the Tetons some time on 2002. My partner has limited windows of opportunity and I wanted to get some better information on conditions during the spring. Our most opportune time based on his schedule is April/May. We had originally planned for a summer climb, and I had planned on hitting the Owen-Spalding route using the Wittich Crack.
So my question is, what kind of conditions should we expect in April/May (I'm going to push for late May) and would there be a better route for that time of year?

Will be snow snow snow...that time of year. I climbed the Stettner to Ford Coulior in early July on a good snow year and didn't hit rock until the summit...so...

Did Irene's Arete in early May one year...

In April/May, you'll have a chance at hittin' snow on the approach to Garnet Canyon before you get off the switchbacks and possibly as low as prior to the switchbacks.

O-S is a colder route. That time of year you'll want full on ice gear. The routes in the sun like the Exum may be a tad more enjoyable if you want more rock climbing than snow or ice.

I think mid to late June is even considered "early" season for most rock type routes on the Grand.

So...depends on what you want. May might be perfect for hittin' the Black Ice as its been melting out seemingly earlier every year...

I'd say a snow/ice route would be a better choice for spring. If you manage to top out, you'll still need a bit of snow/ice gear to get off the Grand as well, so, might as well use it for the ascent too.

Plenty of lower climbs that will be pokin' out of the snow that time of year. I did Guides Wall in early May one year and might be the only time to avoid the crowds there.

Most of the gully climbs could be in good shape then. Will depend on freezing level, snowpack, weather, avy cycle etc. Could be hit or miss...

Good luck!

Brian in SLC

Brian,

Thank you for the information. It is most helpful and very much appreciated.

Karl