Black Diamond Stance Belay Parka

1 review
5-star:   0
4-star:   1
3-star:   0
2-star:   0
1-star:   0

Reviews

3

Really excellent belaying parka. Warm, comfortable,…

Rating: rated 4.5 of 5 stars
Source: bought via a "pro deal"
Price Paid: $160

Summary

Really excellent belaying parka. Warm, comfortable, packs down small, and doesn't weigh much at all. Great for very cold belaying at the crag, and wet alpine climbs.

Pros

  • Warm
  • Synthetic
  • Amazing hood

Cons

  • Does not come with stuff sack or pocket zip
  • Too many zippered pockets
  • Outer material could be better

I recently picked up an OR Chaos for belaying in in Canadian Rockies winter conditions. I was really impressed that such a thin jacket could be as warm as this one was. However it still was not suitable for -25°, so I decided to look elsewhere.

After much humming and hawing between the DAS Parka from Patagonia and the Dually from Arc'teryx I opted for the Stance. 

It has proven to be a excellent jacket. I have used it touring, and climbing. And it has been perfect. It is very warm. I would rate it just barely below the Dually Parka, and comparable to the Marmot Guides Down Jacket or a TNF Nuptse. Considering it's synthetic is pretty huge. 

As for fit, it's a bit odd, but for me works well. I am 5'10" with a very slim build, long torso, and medium arms. For me it's perfect. It's a narrow fit at the waist, but quite wide up top to fit loads of layers underneath. The narrow waist is excellent for trapping in heat, and the two way zipper means if you need to open the waist up you can.

The hood is massive and very thickly insulated. It's super comfy and really feels warm. When zipped up it covers the tip of my nose. The sleeves are different then most parkas as they are very tight fitted stretch fabric (similar to a Atom LT) which I really like as it when your switching gloves frequently they don't bunch up against velcro straps, or extra material. 

As for pockets there are two zipped handwarming pockets, two external chest pockets and two internal glove pockets. I prefer the Chaos for its non zippered handwarming pockets, and one internal, one external chest pockets, but I appreciate two glove pockets on each side of the jacket. Helps bulk the jacket up and keep it warm.

So far the parka seems to shed moisture fine, though I haven't truly tested it yet. It's very warm, but I have felt slight winds push it around. Pertex Endurance with its wind-resistant finish would have been a better choice if you ask me, but the jacket still holds up well in -25°. 

Overall the minor flaws are not deal-breakers, and really quite forgettable. I am warm, comfortable, and have could range of motion. 

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