Really excellent belaying parka. Warm, comfortable,…
Source: bought via a "pro deal"
Price Paid: $160
Really excellent belaying parka. Warm, comfortable, packs down small, and doesn't weigh much at all. Great for very cold belaying at the crag and wet alpine climbs.
- Amazing hood
- Does not come with stuff sack or pocket zip
- Too many zippered pockets
- Outer material could be better
I recently picked up an OR Chaos for belaying in in Canadian Rockies winter conditions. I was really impressed that such a thin jacket could be as warm as this one was. However it still was not suitable for -25°, so I decided to look elsewhere.
It has proven to be a excellent jacket. I have used it touring and climbing. And it has been perfect. It is very warm. I would rate it just barely below the Dually Parka and comparable to the Marmot Guides Down Jacket or a TNF Nuptse. Considering it's synthetic is pretty huge.
As for fit, it's a bit odd, but for me works well. I am 5'10" with a very slim build, long torso, and medium arms. For me it's perfect. It's a narrow fit at the waist, but quite wide up top to fit loads of layers underneath. The narrow waist is excellent for trapping in heat, and the two-way zipper means if you need to open the waist up you can.
The hood is massive and very thickly insulated. It's super comfy and really feels warm. When zipped up it covers the tip of my nose. The sleeves are different then most parkas as they are very tight fitted stretch fabric (similar to an Atom LT), which I really like as when you're switching gloves frequently they don't bunch up against velcro straps or extra material.
As for pockets there are two zipped handwarming pockets, two external chest pockets and two internal glove pockets. I prefer the Chaos for its non-zippered handwarming pockets, and one internal, one external chest pocket, but I appreciate two glove pockets on each side of the jacket. Helps bulk the jacket up and keep it warm.
So far the parka seems to shed moisture fine, though I haven't truly tested it yet. It's very warm, but I have felt slight winds push it around. Pertex Endurance with its wind-resistant finish would have been a better choice if you ask me, but the jacket still holds up well in -25°.
Overall the minor flaws are not deal-breakers, and really quite forgettable. I am warm, comfortable, and have good range of motion.
This belay parka is very warm, fit is a little snug.
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $150
This belay parka is very warm, fit is a little snug. Quality of the stitching is good and the feel is quite good. The hood is large and very well insulated. It is as described a good belay parka.
- Lots of pockets
I am 6'2" 180 lbs and I ordered the XL. This size works very well over my soft shell jacket. A large would have been snug in the shoulders. Zipper is thick and does not snag while zipping even with heavy gloves on.
It is a little on the heavy side, but that is the trade off for synthetic parkas. Very warm jacket.