Black Diamond Stance Belay Parka

1 review
5-star:   0
4-star:   1
3-star:   0
2-star:   0
1-star:   0

Reviews

3

Really excellent belaying parka. Warm, comfortable,…

Rating: rated 4.5 of 5 stars
Source: bought via a "pro deal"
Price Paid: $160

Summary

Really excellent belaying parka. Warm, comfortable, packs down small, and doesn't weigh much at all. Great for very cold belaying at the crag, and wet alpine climbs.

Pros

  • Warm
  • Synthetic
  • Amazing hood

Cons

  • Does not come with stuff sack or pocket zip
  • Too many zippered pockets
  • Outer material could be better

I recently picked up an OR Chaos for belaying in in Canadian Rockies winter conditions. I was really impressed that such a thin jacket could be as warm as this one was. However it still was not suitable for -25°, so I decided to look elsewhere.

After much humming and hawing between the DAS Parka from Patagonia and the Dually from Arc'teryx I opted for the Stance. 

It has proven to be a excellent jacket. I have used it touring, and climbing. And it has been perfect. It is very warm. I would rate it just barely below the Dually Parka, and comparable to the Marmot Guides Down Jacket or a TNF Nuptse. Considering it's synthetic is pretty huge. 

As for fit, it's a bit odd, but for me works well. I am 5'10" with a very slim build, long torso, and medium arms. For me it's perfect. It's a narrow fit at the waist, but quite wide up top to fit loads of layers underneath. The narrow waist is excellent for trapping in heat, and the two way zipper means if you need to open the waist up you can.

The hood is massive and very thickly insulated. It's super comfy and really feels warm. When zipped up it covers the tip of my nose. The sleeves are different then most parkas as they are very tight fitted stretch fabric (similar to a Atom LT) which I really like as it when your switching gloves frequently they don't bunch up against velcro straps, or extra material. 

As for pockets there are two zipped handwarming pockets, two external chest pockets and two internal glove pockets. I prefer the Chaos for its non zippered handwarming pockets, and one internal, one external chest pockets, but I appreciate two glove pockets on each side of the jacket. Helps bulk the jacket up and keep it warm.

So far the parka seems to shed moisture fine, though I haven't truly tested it yet. It's very warm, but I have felt slight winds push it around. Pertex Endurance with its wind-resistant finish would have been a better choice if you ask me, but the jacket still holds up well in -25°. 

Overall the minor flaws are not deal-breakers, and really quite forgettable. I am warm, comfortable, and have could range of motion. 

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Retailers' Descriptions

Here's what other sites are saying:

Designed for bone-chilling belays in damp climates, this parka provides the moisture-resistant warmth of PrimaLoft Silver insulation along with ample pocket storage.

- REI

The warmest jacket in the line, the Black Diamond Stance Belay Parka excels in the coldest temperatures and highest altitudes. A collection of features make this parka a must-have for any alpine climb. Highly wind and water resistant Stays warm even when wet Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood Two zippered chest pockets, two zippered hand pockets, two internal drop pockets, internal stretch media pocket Stretch gusset cuffs Two-way front zipper Drawcord hem

- OMCgear

A jacket that keeps you comfortably warm while you belay in either alpine or ice climbing adventures has to be a work of art, and the Black Diamond Men's Stance Belay Insulated Parka is the Mona Lisa of all belay jackets. Two layers of 80g PrimaLoft Synergy bring the warmth without the weight even if it gets wet, so you stay nice and toasty while you belay your buddy. A Pertex shell adds durability, wind-resistance, breathability, and better moisture-wicking qualities than waterproof membranes. To make up for that lack of wet-weather protection, Black Diamond coated the jacket with DWR to help keep you dry while your climber scrapes ice down on your belay ledge. The Stance features an adjustable hood that either slides over your helmet or cinches across your head. A two-way zipper at the center front aptly accommodates your harness, belay device, and rope. Stretch gussets at the cuffs softly seal out any blustery blizzard heading your way, and the drawcord at the hem retains all that wonderful warmth. The internal drop pockets have enough room for your gloves, and the chest pockets have even more space. With an internal pocket for your phone, you have plenty of space to warm up your digits in the hand pockets before you start your send.

- Backcountry.com

On Sale. Free Shipping. Black Diamond Men's Stance Belay Parka FEATURES of the Black Diamond Men's Stance Belay Parka Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood Two zippered chest pockets, two zippered hand pockets, two internal drop pockets, internal stretch media pocket Stretch gusset cuffs Two-way front zipper Drawcord hem Filled with two independent layers of lightweight, highly compressible PrimaLoft Synergy insulation that provide sleeping-bag level warmth, even when wet Two-way center front zip lets you wear the jacket over your harness while belaying Ideal for alpine adventures and ice climbing SPECIFICATIONS of the Black Diamond Men's Stance Belay Parka Pertex shell (40d 60 g/m2, plain-weave nylon with DWR) with PrimaLoft Synergy insulation (80 g/m2, two-layer) Weight: 27.9 oz / 790 g

- Moosejaw

Designed to endure bail-worthy belay conditions on single-pitch ice routes and massive alpine objectives alike, the Black Diamond Stance Belay Parka lets you hunker down while your partner battles it out on the sharp end. Our warmest insulated jacket, the Stance is filled with two independent layers of lightweight, highly compressible PrimaLoft Synergy insulation that provide sleeping-bag level warmth, even when wet. A two-way center front zip lets you wear the jacket over your harness while belaying, and oversized hand, chest and internal drop pockets accommodate gloves, water bottles and other essentials.

- RockCreek