evolv Optimus Prime
Materials: Synthetic, nylon mess
Use: vertical to steep face climbing and bouldering
Break-in Period: good out of the box
Great shoe. I ending up buying this the same size as my old Defys and it fits well. Very minimal stretch as you would expect from a synthetic shoe with a liner. As far as the smell goes its tons better with this shoe then my old Defys about par with my leather shoes.
This shoes is what I would called semi-aggressive. Were it is down turned its not so extreme as to make it impossible to climb vertical problems easily or smearing when necessary. This can be a problem with some more aggressive shoes Ive owned like the Evolv Predator/Talon or the Scarpa Boosters for example.
About the only downside I can really see with the shoe is that because of the symmetrical toe (rounded) as opposed to a typical asymmetrical (pointed) toe is the lack of ability to get into smaller pockets.
Other then that I can't complain. It's comfortable enough for all day sessions and yet still aggressive enough to hammer out that cave problem.
Break-in Period: not long
Price Paid: $110
Awesome shoes just brilliant. True craftmanship on Sharma's part.
Where to Buy
Here's what other sites are saying:
Edge steep areas with ease in the Prime rock shoe from Evolv. The last was designed by climbing great Chris Sharma, and the toe has a Trax oval grid that, combined with a hi-friction rubber sole, provides you with high performance and extra traction. This product was selected for the Outside Magazine 2009 Buyer's Guide.
- Mountain Gear
Chris Sharma works hand-in-hand (or maybe foot-in-foot?) with Evolv to create the Optimus Prime climbing shoe. With a versatile down cambered shoe for front point edging and climbing verticals for overhangs, you will soon become the master of the rock. Take the Optimus Prime up a wall today and let Evolv show you how great their climbing shoes really are. PRODUCT FEATURES: PROFILE:Semi symmetrical down cambered (CS1 last) SOLE:4.2mm TRAX XT-5 high friction rubber RAND:2.2mm TRAX duro-rand UPPER:Perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper LINING:Cotton fiber lining in heel cup/toe box MIDSOLE:MX-P 1mm half-length midsole
- Appalachian Outdoors
Description of Evolv Shaman Climbing ShoeThe Evolv Shaman climbing shoe works its magic and heals the wounds caused by ill comfort and a lack of proper craftsmanship. Developed from the ground up by Chris Shaman, this Evolve mens climbing shoe is ideal for hard sport climbing and steep terrain. The Shaman incorporates design elements that work synergistically to give the highest performance including the big toe knuckle box and love bump midsole that keep the big toe in a position of power to obtain maximum strength for edging and grabbing. Like a game of Chess, you will always have the advantage. The tensioned heel and arch rand eliminates dead space in the arch for secure heel hooks and transfers power to the toes the multi pattern lining leather forefoot liner for increased sensitivity and feel, cotton heel for non-stretch performance, give the best feel and function for demanding climbs.FeaturesUpper SyntheticLining Leather forefoot and foot bed, cotton heelClosure Three opposing Hook and Loop strapsSole Two piece 4.2 mm TRAX High Friction RubberRandVTR3D variable thickness toe randMidsole MX-P 1.5 mm half-length love bump midsoleHigh friction toe patch
- US Outdoor Store
Chris Sharma designed this versatile down cambered shoe for front point edging and climbing vertical to overhanging climbs. It offers high performance in a comfortable fit.