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User Review: Five Ten Siren

Rating: rated 4.5 of 5 stars
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $124

Summary

Rad low-volume shoe!

Pros

  • Longevity
  • Fit
  • Edging

Cons

  • Stretch

I'm on my second pair of Sirens. As with all aspiring climbers, your first pair is never tight enough, and these stretched so that my laces were maxed out in tightness. I dropped a whole size, and have been pleased ever since.

The heel is tight enough that I can't possibly slip out when heel hooking, but doesn't press on my achilles tendon, like a lot of other shoes do. It could use thicker rubber, though — I HURT when I'm really putting my weight on that heel. They also don't seem to develop that crease at the rubber/leather boundary at the toe, so the top of my toes don't get rubbed raw.

They've held up well to heavy gym climbing (3-4x/week), and light outdoor bouldering (2x/ summer month). While tight, they are much more comfortable than my other shoes, since they aren't terribly aggressive. Another plus is that the dye doesn't bleed onto your feet, like some other shoes do.

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