La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $500
Best mountaineering boot money can buy, period.
- Great fit, particularly for narrower feet
- Excellent rigid sole
- Automatic crampon compatability
The fit of the boot is excellent. Like most La Sportiva products, it skews towards those with narrower feet, but will fit most people with medium width feet just fine. A "second tongue" is included, which allows for people with lower volume feet to customize the fit of the boot.
The boot is quite warm, probably the best leather boot on the market when it comes to keeping your feet warm, and the leather gives the boot a more "satisfying" feel when climbing than plastic. The incredible rigidity of the sole and upper make this boot excellent for everything from kicking steps to climbing vertical ice. The fact that it accepts automatic crampons is also nice.
The yellow dye in the leather will bleed out when new, making it look as if a dog has peed in the snow EVERYWHERE that you go. For a while.
Long story short, this is the best mountaineering boot you can purchase. As it ought to be for the asking price....ouch!
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $500
Most important for a great all-around mountaineering boot is all day comfort, which the Nepal EVO GTX excels at. Even though the description does not mention any info about using this boot for technical climbing, I have found they are very solid for mixed/technical terrain. I highly recommend this boot and they keep my feet toasty!
- Climb well
The fit is true to size and is uniform to all La Sportiva boots. I have a high arch and use insoles which work very well. The lacing system is efficient at customizing the boot to my foot.
I went on a 14 mile hike in winter with the boots right out of the box and experienced no discomfort. This boot provides very good comfort and support. They are very rigid and have a solid feel which helps climbing steeper inclines.
I have yet to encounter any issues with water leaking in. These have kept my feet 100% dry.
Excellent grip in both snow and dirt but slippery on wet rock.
Keeps feet very warm but can overheat if temps get too high.
Very consistent boots that are very well made and last for years. I bought them in 2009, used them every winter/spring season and they're durability is amazing.
Source: bought it used
Price Paid: $310
Great all around boot.
- Warm and good for multiple uses.
- Shoeaces come untied easily.
Good boot. I am currently using them for ice climbing and may use them for mountaineering in the future. They are warm and comfortable. Work well with my BD Cyborgs. Fit is true to size. I just wear a Smartwool ski sock with them and my feet are generally warm enough.
Materials: single leather, full shank
Use: climbing and mountaineering
Weight: 5lbs 8.5oz size 45.5
Price Paid: $245
I have to give these boots mad props (yes I said mad props). Here's the story: I was stupid and had the brilliant idea of traversing Mt. Adams north to south but the catch was I parked my car on the south side forcing me to backpack around the mountain...
Great idea right? Any way I wore these boots for the entire 11 mile trip around the west side of the mountain and although they weren't exactly comfortable, they didn't destroy my feet either. Ok, so I thought I'd be clever and not lace them up all the way so I could flex my ankle a bit more which resulted in some blisters, an easy fix. Once laced correctly they were comfortable, walked well enough for me chew through the hike in about 8hrs (I could've done better in my tennies).
As far as the climb went they grip rock like a dream. The north ridge of Adams in one giant gravel pile, and they helped grip the tiny bid of solid rock there was. They kept my feet dry during the numerous stream crossings and gripped the wet rock amazingly as well. The ankle support is very intuitive. I could flex as needed but not so loose that when stumbling on the loose-pile-that-is-the-north ridge-of-Adams my ankles were not injured either.
Obviously they accept crampons, have a gore-tex lining, and all that good stuff. I didn't notice my feet being too warm with the duratherm lining but at the end of the day after taking them off, there was quite of bit of moisture build up.
Bottom Line: Great boot for CLIMBING. Don't try to hike in them. Wear your tennies instead ;P.
There is a glaring downside though: They are heavy, like 2lbs heavier than than my regular hiking boots.
Oh yeah, found mine used, pretty pricey otherwise.