User Review: Mammut Focus

Mammut Focus
Above: The current Focus, which may differ slightly from the version reviewed.

Reviewed January 14, 2007 by Delmarco

Rating:
Price Paid: 42.50

Bought in Fall 2006 to replace my old Petzl Dionysis Harness and I've been very happy. It's a hard act to follow the more expensive and widely popular Dionysis and the Focus pulled it off with an amazing price tag and comfort. It is quick & easy to put on except hooking the buttstraps, after the harness was on, took some getting used to. One thing that I didn't realized until this weekend when I wore the harness over winter layers for ice climbing was the waist actually fits smaller than normal for the size. The leg loops fit accurately but the waist in the medium size fits like a small size. I realized that the waist tips should actually overlap from where they meet under the side-buckle all the way across the front above the belay loop area. When this happens the harness sits better on the wearer and gear loops on the waist belt align correctly with your hips. Previously, I was climbing sport and top rope with less clothing on and had little use for the gear loops so I didn't notice the harness belt was small on me & lopsided.
It is not a critical issue, but I prefer to have my gear loops lined up symmetrically and I noticed that sizing up correctly will make the Focus contour your body better.
Even though the Focus is a great all around Harness the amazing contour technology that MAMMUT uses has also got me interested in buying the Mirage harness, a lighter version of the Focus, for Alpine ascents and Sport.
I definately recommend this harness, but also recommend trying it on before you buy.