Scarpa Instinct S

1 review
5-star:   0
4-star:   1
3-star:   0
2-star:   0
1-star:   0

Reviews

1

One of my favorite warm-ups shoes, the Scarpa Instinct…

Rating: rated 4 of 5 stars
Source: bought via a "pro deal"
Price Paid: 50% of the retail via store discount

Summary

One of my favorite warm-ups shoes, the Scarpa Instinct S are comfortable and aggressive sport climbing shoes with a stiff bottom sole.

Pros

  • Aggressive
  • Stiff rubber
  • Comfortable

Cons

  • Heel pops off foot easily
  • Not great for toe hooking
  • Bad for compression/gymnastic bouldering

While comfortable and aggressive at once, the lack of heel tension or suction means very limited heel hooking and uncomfortable toe-hooking. The heel pops off on any pulling heel hooks, which are crucial to bouldering.

The stiff bottom sole is supportive of the foot and results in effortless toeing in, and the rubber stands up to granite and small holds well. This shoe is good for warming up, but not long stances or trad, since the ultra aggressive shape can be tiring after a long time.

I would use these for warming up, ladder climbs, or sport climbing on a flat faced pitch without any fancy movement.

Where to Buy

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Manufacturer's Description

Visit Scarpa's Instinct S page.

Retailers' Descriptions

Here's what other sites are saying:

On Sale. Free Shipping. Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe FEATURES of the Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe Bi-Tension active randing system provides maximum toe power without Painful 'cramming' 100% Microsuede for incredible comfort, no stretch and long-term durability Rubber toe patch provides toe-scumming and hooking power Vibram XS Grip2 makes these shoes stick like glue SPECIFICATIONS of the Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe Upper: Microsuede Midsole: Flexan 1.0 Sole: Vibram XS Grip2; 3mm Last: FQ Weight: 1/2 per pair: 6.5 oz / 184 g

- Moosejaw

The Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe combines a seriously aggressive down-turned toe with the convenience of a slip-on design to get you sending quickly. To top it off, Scarpa added a super sticky Vibram XS Grip2 sole and wrapped the rubber over the toe to give you an edge on the steepest routes out there.

- Backcountry.com

The most sensitive shoe in the entire SCARPA collection perfect for training bouldering and sport routesFeatures 100 Lorica for incredible comfort and longterm durability Rubber toe patch provides toescumming and hooking power Vibram XS Grip2 makes these shoes stick like glueSpecsUpper LoricaMidsole TenoflexSole Vibram XS Grip2 3mmLast FQSizes 34 45 half sizesWeight 230g 81ozColor Lite Orange

- Bentgate.com

The most sensitive shoe in the entire Scarpa collection - perfect for training, bouldering and sport routes.

- EMS