Scarpa Instinct S

1 review
5-star:   0
4-star:   1
3-star:   0
2-star:   0
1-star:   0

Reviews

1

One of my favorite warm-ups shoes, the Scarpa Instinct…

Rating: rated 4 of 5 stars
Source: bought via a "pro deal"
Price Paid: 50% of the retail via store discount

Summary

One of my favorite warm-ups shoes, the Scarpa Instinct S are comfortable and aggressive sport climbing shoes with a stiff bottom sole.

Pros

  • Aggressive
  • Stiff rubber
  • Comfortable

Cons

  • Heel pops off foot easily
  • Not great for toe hooking
  • Bad for compression/gymnastic bouldering

While comfortable and aggressive at once, the lack of heel tension or suction means very limited heel hooking and uncomfortable toe-hooking. The heel pops off on any pulling heel hooks, which are crucial to bouldering.

The stiff bottom sole is supportive of the foot and results in effortless toeing in, and the rubber stands up to granite and small holds well. This shoe is good for warming up, but not long stances or trad, since the ultra aggressive shape can be tiring after a long time.

I would use these for warming up, ladder climbs, or sport climbing on a flat faced pitch without any fancy movement.