Trango Jaws???

2:13 p.m. on April 18, 2002 (EDT)

Any belay or rapelling experiences with it? Or should I just get an ATC? Thanks.

3:52 p.m. on April 18, 2002 (EDT)

I've used both the ATC and the Jaws (and a Gri-Gri and a bunch of others). Bottom line: the Jaws is a terrific compromise. While I love the subtlty and control of an ATC, it can sometimes take a really yank on the brake hand to slow somebody down. This is especially noticeable if you are belaying someone larger than you. The Jaws give you the option of braking against a pair of horns that help with slowing down the fat guy who takes a whipper off the overhang.

11:02 a.m. on April 20, 2002 (EDT)

Trango Jaws!!

Can be used with the Jaws side during belaying for more friction holding a fall or flipped over and used with-out the jaws for rappelling.

The Barking Dawg

9:48 p.m. on May 29, 2002 (EDT)


Any belay or rapelling experiences with it? Or should I just get an ATC? Thanks.

i've used a jaws for years (since they first came out) as my primary device, and i love it. they are great for:

climbing with skinny double ropes - much better holding power than an atc.
belaying heavier leaders who fall and/or hangdog a lot
extra security on rappels, especially with skinny ropes or single line, free hanging type raps

they are not so good with:
really fat, old, stiff ropes, as they get hung up more in a jaws than they do in an atc. it's harder to feed out slack in a hurry or rap smoothly if your rope is a beast. and the belay is a bit less dynamic than an ATC, making falls a little less soft.

in general, they give a little extra security and peace of mind, and make it a lot easier to hold a hanging climber without tiring your hand. a good compromise between a grigria and an atc when weight or cost is an issue.

June 23, 2018
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