Middle Teton

I would like to get some interested backpackers to do a Middle Teton trip this summer.

This is a non-technical climb (II Class 3) from the southwest couloir. The peak is 12,804 feet, so perhaps not for those coming from sea level, or prone to altitude sickness.
The trip would start from Lupine Meadows in Grand Teton National Park, on to the bottom of the couloir by way of Garnet Canyon. We would make camp there and do the climb the next morning, in an attempt to start our decent by 2:00pm, (as the chances of afternoon storms increases greatly by then.) From the saddle, the climb to the summit is about 5 hours.
There will most likely be several snow field crossings, and the hikers will need to own and know how to use an ice axe. Also, the hikers must be prepared for severe weather. It can go from 60 degrees to snow in the same day.
The trip would probably be for a maximum of about five people, as the permits are limited.

Contact me at patti@jacksonholemusic.com

Quote:

This is a non-technical climb (II Class 3) from the southwest couloir. The peak is 12,804 feet, so perhaps not for those coming from sea level, or prone to altitude sickness.

Hmmm...I'd almost argue that Class 3 is technical climbing. Some folks may want a rope on this route.

Quote:

The trip would start from Lupine Meadows in Grand Teton National Park, on to the bottom of the couloir by way of Garnet Canyon. We would make camp there and do the climb the next morning, in an attempt to start our decent by 2:00pm, (as the chances of afternoon storms increases greatly by then.) From the saddle, the climb to the summit is about 5 hours.

There's no water at the saddle (and I'm assuming you mean in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, all the way up between the Middle and South Teton?). Your best camp might be just above the Meadows into the South Fork, but near some running water. Rangers will know the spot.

I'd say shoot for descending by noon or earlier.

Quote:

There will most likely be several snow field crossings, and the hikers will need to own and know how to use an ice axe. Also, the hikers must be prepared for severe weather. It can go from 60 degrees to snow in the same day.

"Hikers" and ice axes sometimes aren't a good mix in the Tetons. Folks should really be experienced climbers, IMHO.

Good luck.

Brian in SLC

To Brian the Mormon in SLC:

I have done the trip four times. I live 3/4 mile from the southern entrance to Grand Teton National Park, and have to date logged about 500 miles in this park I know it well. Perhaps backpacker means something different where you are from.

Quote:

Quote:

This is a non-technical climb (II Class 3) from the southwest couloir. The peak is 12,804 feet, so perhaps not for those coming from sea level, or prone to altitude sickness.

Hmmm...I'd almost argue that Class 3 is technical climbing. Some folks may want a rope on this route.

Quote:

The trip would start from Lupine Meadows in Grand Teton National Park, on to the bottom of the couloir by way of Garnet Canyon. We would make camp there and do the climb the next morning, in an attempt to start our decent by 2:00pm, (as the chances of afternoon storms increases greatly by then.) From the saddle, the climb to the summit is about 5 hours.

There's no water at the saddle (and I'm assuming you mean in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, all the way up between the Middle and South Teton?). Your best camp might be just above the Meadows into the South Fork, but near some running water. Rangers will know the spot.

I'd say shoot for descending by noon or earlier.

Quote:

There will most likely be several snow field crossings, and the hikers will need to own and know how to use an ice axe. Also, the hikers must be prepared for severe weather. It can go from 60 degrees to snow in the same day.

"Hikers" and ice axes sometimes aren't a good mix in the Tetons. Folks should really be experienced climbers, IMHO.

Good luck.

Brian in SLC

Quote:

To Brian the Mormon in SLC:

I'm not, but, thanks for assuming.

Quote:

I have done the trip four times. I live 3/4 mile from the southern entrance to Grand Teton National Park, and have to date logged about 500 miles in this park I know it well. Perhaps backpacker means something different where you are from.

Well, aren't you special? I "climbed" it in '85 the first time. Have been up and down it a time or two since.

Yep, backpacking means something different to me than climbing.

Do you follow ANAM? Since you're local, chat with Renny and Jed about how many folks get killed on snow in the Tetons, because they are "hikers" instead of being experienced "climbers".

Are you really masquerading as the Pied Piper?

Cheers!

Brian in SLC

I'll be there in mid-August. Does anyone have a photo of Middle Teton SW Col or S. Teton with scramble routes superimposed (drawn) on them?
- David