Coleman Stoves

6:04 p.m. on October 26, 2006 (EDT)
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What type of the 5 different types of fittings that Coleman makes is on the Exponet F1 Ultralight Stove? And has anyone used this stove before? This stove weighs less, burns longer , boils water faster, and boils more water per canister than the MSR Pocket Rocket and Snow Peak Giga Power, yet I haven't heard much about this stove.

8:40 a.m. on October 27, 2006 (EDT)
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I have the big brother to the Ulralight, the F1 Powerboost. I have seen its weight listed as either 4.5 or 5 oz. It puts out 23,900 BTUS! Nothing else is even close.

Also has a built in piezo lighter. Nice little stove.

11:59 a.m. on October 27, 2006 (EDT)
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Coleman renamed their whole series of backpacking stoves "Exponent" and changed the color scheme. Basically, they are just the same stoves they have always had. Sorry, no, the Exponent F1 Ultralight (F1 is supposed to evoke Formula 1 racing cars) is not "weighs less, burns longer, boils water faster, and boils more water per canister", i.e., more efficient than the Pocket Rocket or Giga Power. Coleman's claimed time to boil 1 liter is 3m40s, which is actually slower than I have gotten in tests of the Pocket Rocket or Giga Power using the same stainless 1 liter MSR pot I always use for comparisons (the GSI 1 liter anodized aluminum cuts about 10 percent off the boil times). I have not used the F1 Ultralight in the field, just at the demo at the OR Show in August. I didn't get a chance to actually weigh it to check the claimed weight (2.7 ounces), but the published difference is so close to the Pocket Rocket (3 ounces) and Giga Power that, unless you drill holes in your toothbrush handle to lighten it, it isn't worth worrying about.

But, to answer your question, the F1 Powerboost and F1 Ultralight both use the industry standard threaded coupling ("Lindal"). So you can use Coleman, MSR, Primus, Snowpeak, Markill, etc etc etc canisters that have the same coupling.

As for choosing among the various light screw-on stove tops, the Coleman is likely to be more readily available, and is close enough to the others to not make a huge effort to get one of the others. But given the choice, I would still go for the Pocket Rocket (or the tiny Markill 1.7 ounce one Barb got, even though it is a little slower to boil).

10:17 a.m. on October 28, 2006 (EDT)
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You had said bill, that the F1 Ultralight specs from Coleman are a bit slower than "real-life", is this the case with most stoves? Also is this why the Pocket rocket is better than the Giga power, because it proformes better in the field than on paper? I am in the market for a stove (I have never owned one before)...and I think I am making this harder than it needs to be...

7:44 p.m. on October 28, 2006 (EDT)
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Jonathan-Backpackinglight.com has a lot of reviews of canister stoves. Some of the content is subscription only, but a lot of the free content will answer some of your questions-use their search feature and type in stoves and a lot of articles pop up. I saw a chart somewhere comparing a bunch of canister stoves and I think it was there. I have a Primus Micron. Maybe there are better ones, but I like it. I have some others as well, including a Coleman Extreme that uses their proprietary canister design.

I'd just pick one that you like at the price you want to pay and stop looking.

9:08 p.m. on October 29, 2006 (EST)
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Yes, Jonathan, you definitely are making this harder than it needs to be. In practice, there really is not all that much difference in the performance of the stoves. I mean, do you really care whether the stove/pot combination boils that quart of water in 3m15s or 3m45s, or even 4m10s? Those boil times are with a new, full canister, at an air temperature of 68F (20C is a standard temperature = 68F), starting with water at 68F, indoors in a test kitchen, with no wind. In real life, you may be cooking at anything from 20F to 120F, always with a canister that is partly empty (more than half the time it will be less than half full - and yes, I mean that literally, since the max flame you get decreases as the canister empties), plus at the lower temperatures, the pressure (and hence flame) gets lower and your flame gets cooler.

Your actual cook time varies with wind conditions, what kind of windshield you have, air temperature, starting water temperature, and on and on. By the way, do NOT use a windshield that traps or directs heat onto the canister - if the canister overheats, it will produce a large, potentially fatal ball of shrapnel. The screw-on stoves you have been asking about are particularly vulnerable to this type of failure - and I have seen the aftermath of such carelessness.

So stop worrying so much, and as Tom said, just get a stove and pot, and get out there in the woods and hills.

7:27 p.m. on October 30, 2006 (EST)
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Faster boil time often translates to lower fuel efficiency. Much of the heat just goes out around the pot and into the air. Turn it down some to use less fuel, in some cases significantly less. It may take a little longer to boil the water, but why does a minute matter in the wilderness?

A wind screen may be used with discretion (disclaimer: if done wrong, it can be very bad, as Bill pointed out). Don't wrap or enclose the stove and canister. A half moon shape (half completely open) to block the wind works. Periodically check how warm the canister is. This is especially important when cooking for extended periods or when using larger pots or skillets. If the canister is getting warm, remove the wind screen. You can also elevate the screen on rocks or something to leave a gap for air flow beneath the wind screen.

If you are new to canister stoves, use it a few times without a windscreen to learn how it acts and how warm (or not) the canister gets in normal use.

July 28, 2014
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