Welcome, guest [login | register]

Posted by FMD on June 10, 2007 at 8:43:05 pm EDT
In reply to clove hitch for tie in's posted by FMD on June 8, 2007 at 11:24:32 am EDT

I got this letter via e-mail from a friend of mine. Its titled abuses of the clove hitch.

Over the last few years at courses and exams there has been considerable discussion over the use of the clove hitch. Reported, but unconfirmed, testing by the Department of Defense indicated that it was possible for the knot to slip at 700 to 1200 pounds of load and for sheath destruction and core damage to occur at 1200-1400 pounds. Consequently some guides felt that there was little point in having a secrue bomberproof anchor if the attachment to it was the weakest point of the system - it was better to use an alternative knot in all circumstances. The UIAA recommends use of the Munter hitch in the same configuration with load next to the spine to maintain crabiner stength. However, Bill Griggers of Bluewater rope considers incorrectly tied clove hitches to be of far more concern that rope slippage or melting, and all users, professional and recreational, would be advised to note this and to tie the knot correctly. Incorectly tied, carabiner failure becomes a real possibility.

I think that I will just stick to my cordelletes, and webbing for building anchors.

Replies

View: flat | threaded

There have been no replies

Post a Reply

Before replying, please read the complete thread.