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Posted by FMD on June 11, 2007 at 7:40:30 am EDT
In reply to clove hitch for tie in's posted by FMD on June 8, 2007 at 11:24:32 am EDT

Tokyo Bill wrote:

"arrive at a stance and create a standard three piece gear anchor with a single power point in the form of a locking biner".

Here in lays the problem. What I had seen was not a typical two or three piece cordellte or webbing into the pro with a single power point as you stated above. These guys went directly into the pro with the clove hitch. They had thier cams placed, a biner off the cam and THEN a clove hitch on the biner which was thier anchors. They were using ATC's as a belay device. They had three pieces placed. Two for the climber and one for the belayer. All three pieces had a clove hitch using a single rope.

The cycling of the rope comes into play when you pull the slack out of the rope as your second advances.

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