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Posted by calamity on February 11, 2008 at 9:22:36 pm EST
In reply to Glacier Peak posted by jeffrey on February 10, 2008 at 12:51:49 pm EST

Better views than Adams or Baker, and perhaps even Rainier, because it's less isolated from other peaks. The whole maze of mountains in southern part of Ptarmigan Traverse area is only a few miles to NNE....

Basically, like volcanos in general, all routes on Glacier Pk are apparently a lot of slogging rather than technical, although obviously, it's a mountaineering trip.

Yeah it's a nice place. A relatively long approach. You're somewhat back in the woods...Certainly more than with the other Washington volcanos. Frostbite is reputedly nicest route & only one I climbed as typical novice poseur.

I think it might max out at 45 degrees, maybe 50. We used no anchors but snow happened to be quite soft in most places, which is typical in summer. Getting from crater to summit, may involve a very short step of steeper stuff, depending on season.

Sitkum Glacier route is said to be slightly more standard and slighly less steep, sightly shorter, and potentially somewhat crowded.

It may be possible to avoid glaciers almost entirely on a south-side route. Routes on East side are obviously somewhat inaccessible and I'd guess aren't often climbed. I imagine most of the routes are somewhat similar.

We took four days, but probably lots of people take two days, and a few do it in a day. It obviously depends how much of an ordeal you want to make out of it and your fitness.

I hear Kennedy Hotsprings was destroyed by a landslide. This is highly unfortunate.

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• Re: Glacier Peak - Brian in SLC 10:40:14 02/12/2008

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