Bouldering at the v10 level, what it takes to get there

1:35 p.m. on January 12, 2013 (EST)
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Recently I was able to achieve my climbing goal last month of bouldering a v10 problem (resevoir rocks in Great Barrington, MA).  I was stoked to achieve this because of all the hard work and training I put in to accomplish this goal.  I plan to shoot a training video of the training exercises and progression routines I perform to get finger strength and total overall strength. 


I am curious to know if others train for their area of climbing (ice, trad, sport, bouldering) and what they do for their training routines.  I always like to try new ideas for endurance training as well and not just for strength.

Here is a short video (including the v10 I climbed) of the trip:

2:33 p.m. on January 12, 2013 (EST)
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Congrats on making your goal. I dont climb, just hike and pack, im scared of heights. Cool video too!

6:37 p.m. on January 12, 2013 (EST)
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Climbing fitness:

  • Four finger (two fingers each hand) pull ups, grasping molding above doorways.
  • Squeezing foam balls, or outdoor hand balls.  I find those metal spring and mechanical hand strength training devices are too stiff and can lead to tendonitus.
  • Attach a cord to the center of a 1 - 1.5" diameter dowel.  Attach the other end to a weight.  Grasp the dowel, one hand on each side of the cord, and wind the cord around the dowel, using it like a winch to lift the weight dangling below.  Extending your arms in front of you multiplies the difficulty.  Practice doing with hands palm side up and palm side down.
  • Walking around on tip toes, arms extended overhead.
  • Yoga stretches for flexibility.
  • Gardening without gloves to toughen you skin.
  • Lots of cycling.

Ed

8:01 p.m. on January 12, 2013 (EST)
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Thanks for the advice!  Ill be sure to try some of those out!

8:01 p.m. on January 12, 2013 (EST)
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Thanks!

5:44 p.m. on January 14, 2013 (EST)
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Nicely sent.

Glad you reached your goal, whats next?

You inspire me to climb more this spring, right after ski season.

9:02 p.m. on January 26, 2013 (EST)
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I tried the 4 finger pullup on the molding above the doorway. Lets just say it wasn't made to hold my weight... oops... gonna have to find somewhere else to do that one.

5:04 a.m. on January 27, 2013 (EST)
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Ha! Yeah i have heard of people doing that before! Metal doorframes are the best for that!

October 24, 2014
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