I gotta ask...

10:32 a.m. on October 8, 2013 (EDT)
219 reviewer rep
15 forum posts

I have been climbing for around 6 months now and just led my first 5.8 and 5.9 in Sandrock last weekend. needless to say, now I'm hooked. Here's my problem. My first pair of shoes were a pair of MadRock Fenix's that I bought at an REI garage sale for $30. Great shoes just too beginner for me now. I then bought a pair of MadRock Flash 2.0 because they were on sale on The Clymb. I have bought worn these shoes out from gym climbing and now climbing on real rock.

Being outside climbing last weekend really made me realize how much an aggressive toe helps you climb MUCH harder. That and the fact that I like having a shoes that doesn't have a lot of give in it. So I guess my question is, can anyone recommend a shoe (brand does not matter) that has this aggressive toe and is also relatively rigid? Any help is appreciated!

12:33 p.m. on October 8, 2013 (EDT)
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LA Sportiva

Miura VS

Miura Lace

Testarossa

Futura 

Katana

Solution

Python

Mad Rock


Shark (best option from Mad Rock)

Evolv


Predator G2

Shaman

These are the only ones I have had experience with.  Try to get to a demo at your local gym, or get a feel for them in the store if they have them.  I would only get more aggressive shoes only if you plan to do a lot of overhanging bouldering/climbing.  Plus these shoes tend to be more expensive.  Good luck in your search!

Mike

6:22 p.m. on October 8, 2013 (EDT)
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Friend of mine does 36 hours of horseshoe hell. Knows tona climbers at the top stratashpeher and himself is MAD monster climber. Evolv Geshido is named after him and him. GeShiDo is his and his climbing partners word for Get Sh** Done.

 

http://www.backcountry.com/evolv-geshido-sc-climbing-shoe?CMP_SKU=EVL0043&MER=0406&skid=EVL0043-LIM-S105&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc001&mv_pc=r101&mr:trackingCode=3FE983F9-3755-E111-88BF-001B21A69EB8&mr:referralID=NA&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=42743349825&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=62930420985&mkwid=sWuHhstRG_dc|pcrid|42743349825&origin=pla&gclid=CNT1y_iiiLoCFcF_QgodoksAuQ

8:49 p.m. on October 8, 2013 (EDT)
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Climbfit had given you an excellent list to begin with, and end with! My choice was the la sportiva katana lace, it combined moderate comfort with sheer performance. Haven't regretted the show purchase for a second.

1:47 a.m. on October 9, 2013 (EDT)
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Climbfit definitely has a good list.

I personally climb in the Shark 2.0. They are aggressive, have a great suction heel for heel hooking and toebox rubber for toe-hooking. I love competing in them!

 

(P.S. Jule Wurm, Jan Hojer, and Guillaume Glairon-Mondet all wear the Shark 2.0, and they've climbed V15 or won World Cups. For $123 the Shark 2 is all the aggressiveness anyone needs, and totally worth buying.)

12:39 p.m. on October 9, 2013 (EDT)
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15 forum posts

Thanks for the recs guys. I got a pretty good list to start from!

2:19 p.m. on October 9, 2013 (EDT)
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One of the leading innovators in sticky rubber, 5.10, has not been mentioned, nor has their parent company, Scarpa. I have and have used over the years, rock and approach shoes from 5.10, La Sportiva, and Evolv, as well as mountaineering boots from Scarpa, La Sportiva, Lowa, and Peter Limmer.

I have used rock and approach shoes and mountaineering boots from some other manufacturers as well, but won't name them because for multiple reasons (differing from one manufacturer to another), they did ot work well for me. Keep in mind that what fits and works for one person may or may not work for someone else - everyone's feet are different (including from each other - right and left feet on the same person differ from each other). You really need to spend time with a trained, experienced boot fitter to get a proper fit. And I will note that a trained, experienced fitter of rock shoes is not necessarily a good mountaineering boot fitter is not necessarily a good ski boot fitter, and conversely.

10:31 p.m. on October 9, 2013 (EDT)
219 reviewer rep
15 forum posts

Good to know Bill, thanks for the recs. The only reason I ask is i feel like I would benefit more from a rigid shoe as opposed to a flexible one. I'm currently using the Mad Rock Flash 2.0, and if the rubber was 30% (idk just throwing a number out there) thicker, I would use these shoes forever. I'm just going to wait until I can't use them anymore, i was just looking for shoes more experienced climbers like to use. Thanks!

November 26, 2014
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