Cirque of Towers

3:56 p.m. on December 11, 2001 (EST)
(Guest)

Hey, I am heading to the Cirque of Towers in July. Any advice or beta? Planning on the classics (Wolf's Head and Pingora) but do you have any other suggestions? Does anybody know which Climbing issue published a guide for it? I have heard that the official climbing guidebook is not published anymore but Climbing mag did an article on it.
Thanks.

5:23 p.m. on December 11, 2001 (EST)
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408 forum posts

Quote:

Hey, I am heading to the Cirque of Towers in July. Any advice or beta? Planning on the classics (Wolf's Head and Pingora) but do you have any other suggestions? Does anybody know which Climbing issue published a guide for it? I have heard that the official climbing guidebook is not published anymore but Climbing mag did an article on it.

"Official" guidebook? Hmmm...still very available is:

Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains
by Joe Kelsey

Any of the recommended routes are, well, recommended.

Wolf's Head...do the original start, unless very wet. Fun, exposed and not too hard. Runnin' belays will keep the ball rollin'...

Brian in SLC

1:33 p.m. on December 12, 2001 (EST)
(Guest)

Feet or hands on the ledge

Hey, on the famous crux traverse on the north side of one of the pillars do you suggest putting you hands or your feet on the ledge. I have seen many picture of this pitch and it looks quite thrilling! The picture in "50 Classic Climbs" shows the leader with his feet in the ledge. It looks to me that it would be quite hard to place any gear in that crack if you are standing on it. What do you think?

2:51 p.m. on December 12, 2001 (EST)
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408 forum posts
Tip toe...

Quote:

Hey, on the famous crux traverse on the north side of one of the pillars do you suggest putting you hands or your feet on the ledge. I have seen many picture of this pitch and it looks quite thrilling! The picture in "50 Classic Climbs" shows the leader with his feet in the ledge. It looks to me that it would be quite hard to place any gear in that crack if you are standing on it. What do you think?

Feet, fer sure. There are a few hand holds above, and the no pro foot traverse is kinda short and not that hard. I thought the move around the corner after the traverse was kinda interesting, in comparison. Anyhoo, would be a burly hand traverse, very much harder. Is an easy walk and the runout is pretty short (at least compared to how much pro we used on the whole climb).

Great route. Did it for the first time last summer. Been on my list forever. Got kinda cornfused a couple of times as I sorta spaced out a good description of the route but, if you keep the difficulties at low fifth class, the way "becomes" obvious...(back and forth around the gendarms is where we got kinda disoriented).

I thought the hard part was past the big ledge on the backside of the last gendarme. I think your supposed to pass a couple of pins, then commit to a short friction/edge traverse then up to another ledge. We went up a crack then down a steep crack which was durn scary for the second.

Fun route. Goes reasonably quickly. We climbed it from our camp below Deep Lake to facilitate doing Steeple from the same camp. Gee...didn't look that far on the map...

Raps on backside were straight forward. Traverse to last rap easy which leads to the col and then hike down. Some folks get confused here, so I've heard. Anyhoo, the book description seemed enough.

Brian in SLC

1:37 p.m. on January 7, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Re: Tip toe...

Quote:

Raps on backside were straight forward. Traverse to last rap easy which leads to the col and then hike down. Some folks get confused here, so I've heard. Anyhoo, the book description seemed enough.

Brian in SLC

I've done both the front side chimney rappels and the back side rappel and walk off. Even though Kelsey warns of stuck ropes in the chimney, I much prefer that descent as long as you feel confident with your rope management skills. It will save you 30 minutes at least.
RP

July 23, 2014
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