Any advice on crampons?

11:40 a.m. on February 23, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

I have a pair of La Sportiva Makalu's and am looking for a good pair of crampons. I've done some searching on the web, but am unsure of what to purchase. I am interested in using them for mountaineering/limited climbing. The models I think I am interested in are the Black Diamond Sabretooth and Charlet Moser Black Ice. Any advice on which or these, or another model people have had luck with? Also, can anyone recommend the strap version for the toe vs. the metal binding for the toe? Is one more stable than the other?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

10:25 a.m. on February 25, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

I've got the Mak's too....currently I use the strap-on version of the CM, S12's - articulating. They have served me well for mountaineering.

D

5:19 p.m. on February 25, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Metal wire front bails (step in) are easier to put on and are very secure if the bail fits the front boot welt properly. Strap on (rapid fix) fit more types of boots, including boots using supergaters or overboots. Sabretooth's, Grivel 12's or CM S12's/black ice will all work on the Makalu. They are all good quality and work equally well. Whichever brand you select, be sure to get the antibot plates. They are not cheap, but will help prevent a fall from snowballing crampons.

Quote:

I have a pair of La Sportiva Makalu's and am looking for a good pair of crampons. I've done some searching on the web, but am unsure of what to purchase. I am interested in using them for mountaineering/limited climbing. The models I think I am interested in are the Black Diamond Sabretooth and Charlet Moser Black Ice. Any advice on which or these, or another model people have had luck with? Also, can anyone recommend the strap version for the toe vs. the metal binding for the toe? Is one more stable than the other?
Thanks in advance for any advice.

12:23 a.m. on February 26, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

a.k.a. Brandon, Brandon Lampley

Well, if you get flat frame crampons, you don't need the antibot plates, you don't want the cookie cutter frames for what you're up to anyway.

toe bail vsw strap ons....the toe bail workw well if it fits your boot and you are diligent about putting them on correctly...hard when its cold, windy, and your hands are numb. a good trade off is a toe basket and heel clip. my recommendation...grivel g12 with the yellow plastic toe basket and the heel clip. if you get the saber tooth or similar with a toe bail, add a keeper strap. have a look at the various grivel bindings to see what i mean.


Quote:

Metal wire front bails (step in) are easier to put on and are very secure if the bail fits the front boot welt properly. Strap on (rapid fix) fit more types of boots, including boots using supergaters or overboots. Sabretooth's, Grivel 12's or CM S12's/black ice will all work on the Makalu. They are all good quality and work equally well. Whichever brand you select, be sure to get the antibot plates. They are not cheap, but will help prevent a fall from snowballing crampons.

11:22 a.m. on February 27, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Antibots...

Quote:


Well, if you get flat frame crampons, you don't need the antibot plates, you don't want the cookie cutter frames for what you're up to anyway.

Na, you'll still need them. In the right snow conditions any crampon will ball-up.

5:27 a.m. on February 28, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Re: Antibots...

Quote:

Na, you'll still need them. In the right snow conditions any crampon will ball-up.

In the 'right snow conditions' anti-balling plates/devices ball up too. Just a whack now and again keeps em clear, or better yet, take off the crampons in soft sticky snow. Just my 2cents.

7:52 p.m. on February 28, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Thinking bout getting me a pair of them CM S12 Articule strap-ons; they really any good? You had any problems with the straps cutting the circulation off in your feet, or do the crap-ons fit well enough to where the straps don't have to be all that tight?

 

Quote:

I've got the Mak's too....currently I use the strap-on version of the CM, S12's - articulating. They have served me well for mountaineering.

D

4:08 p.m. on March 1, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Re: Antibots...

Nay. Crampons without anti balling plates ball up in many different 'right snow conditions'. Crampons with antiballing plates wont do that except in very uncommon 'right conditions'.

8:23 p.m. on March 2, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Rule of thumb & see this site for info

The more flexible the boot welt/midsole, the more flexible the crampon. The stiffer the boots, the stiffer the crampon it can take. Stiffer boots can take flex/articulated crampons but not vice versa.

As someone else said, you won't need high end cookie cutter & vertical front point type crampons for your intended use.

See this for a crampon-boot compatibility guide.

Cheers,

Macca

8:27 p.m. on March 2, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

html snafu - URL here (hopefully!)

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/crampon/

www.scarpa.co.uk/crampon/

12:26 p.m. on March 4, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Quote:

You had any problems with the straps cutting the circulation off in your feet?

Nope, no problems with the straps cutting off the circulation. In fact, I think a person would really have to yank on the straps to compress the Mak's enough to cut off the circulation more than the laces already do.

Cheers,
D

10:42 a.m. on March 5, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Grivel 2F

I also have a pair of La Sportiva Makalu's and I constantly use 2Fs for low angle alpine ice and up to some Akn grd 5 waterfall. I prefer the step-in version which is all I would consider unless you have huge exp boots with overboots on them or soft soled hikers with-out welts on the soles. Then the nylon new classic would be ok.

I also use the Sabretooth on my Makalus and other boots and realy like them but they tend to bend / flex too much on the Malalus for steep ice, but I have done some of that variaty with them. The best binding system out there right now. These would also be grand for what you want.

I personaly dont like CM and their funky heel bail, sticks too far out from the boot and can or at least in my mind get caught on something and release. Plus, when I had them on my Makalu / Nepals, they twisted on the boot but never did fall off. I would not recomend the Black Ice with its funky front point design.

Anti-botts? I reraly use them. Ak snow is dry and powdery, If the snow is that soft and balling, I take them off and use my boots. But, for safety reasons, they are a grand idea to use all the time. You can make your own out of the roll-up plastic kids sleed for about $5 instead of the $35 for real ones, but the real ones do fit better.


Belay-Off
John

1:00 p.m. on March 7, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Re: Antibots...

I used BD Sabretooths w/o anti-balling plates on Mt. Shuksan ascent via Sulphide glacier last August. No balling of crampons experienced during ascent since we left at 2AM for peak on old, consolidated glacial snow that was frozen at that time of day. Quite a lot of balling occurred during the descent, especially the lower we got down the mountain as the day had been sunny and clear. Had to kick crampons against opposing boot for about every three steps taken.

I wouldn't know how to accurately forecast what snow conditions I will be experiencing so why not just put on the anti-balling plates an they will work when they work, not when they don't. Take them off when it seems to be more bother than to keep them on. You are packing your little crampon adjustment wrench with you anyway, right?

Only other problem I had was the loss of one of the strap "keepers" during the changeover from rock to ice. Still don't know how that thing came all the way off the end of the strap as the other one was on tight.

Mark

7:57 p.m. on March 7, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

What's your general, overall impression regarding how well the CM S-12 Articules fit to your boots? Do they fit pretty good? In other words, will they stay on your boots without the straps cinched down (I don't mean walking in them, just stepping into them and lifting your foot off the ground)? Would you buy them again, or opt for a step-in pair if you had it to do over again?


Quote:

Quote:

You had any problems with the straps cutting the circulation off in your feet?

Nope, no problems with the straps cutting off the circulation. In fact, I think a person would really have to yank on the straps to compress the Mak's enough to cut off the circulation more than the laces already do.

Cheers,
D

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