About | Blog | Forums | People | Free Newsletter
Trailspace is a product review site for outdoor enthusiasts. Use it to find and share great gear.

retrobolting Yosemite

8:11 p.m. on February 27, 2002 (EST)
37 reviewer rep
747 forum posts

Guys,
I have been reading all this stuff about dangerous bolts - what about the old 1/4" buttons all over Yosemite? I know someone was busted using a power drill to rebolt some route in the valley, but is it illegal to replace old dangerous bolts with new ones in Yosemite? How about hammering in a piton where the bolts are choss?
Jim S - not a troll - really...

11:30 p.m. on February 27, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Re: re-bolting Yosemite

Quote:

Guys,
I have been reading all this stuff about dangerous bolts - what about the old 1/4" buttons all over Yosemite? I know someone was busted using a power drill to rebolt some route in the valley, but is it illegal to replace old dangerous bolts with new ones in Yosemite? How about hammering in a piton where the bolts are choss?
Jim S - not a troll - really...

donate: http://www.safeclimbing.org/index.html

Cheers,
Christian :?)

5:21 a.m. on February 28, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

fyi, as far as i know, the only folks busted for power drilling have been new routing, not REbolting (replacing aging bolts) distinct from retrobolting (adding bolts to existing lines). Wars fought over this re/retro issue recently. Hand drilling is AOK, by wilderness rules.

if you are thinking of particular routes that you know have bad bolts, mention them to greg or any of us that volunteer with asca.

8:52 a.m. on February 28, 2002 (EST)
0 reviewer rep
408 forum posts
Gettin' hammered...

Quote:

I have been reading all this stuff about dangerous bolts - what about the old 1/4" buttons all over Yosemite?

Hopefully body weight or less only...

Quote:

I know someone was busted using a power drill to rebolt some route in the valley

You might be thinkin' of Scott and Kurt on a variation of the Muir wall? Gee, was that 10 years ago already?

Quote:

but is it illegal to replace old dangerous bolts with new ones in Yosemite?

No, not illegal. Folks that are replacing bolts in the wilderness areas in Yos are hand drilling. Greg Barnes has to have forearms of steel...

>How about hammering in a piton where the bolts are choss?

???

How 'bout pullin' the bolts, redrilling the hole to 3/8" or 1/2" and using a nice Power bolt...

Baby angles do work nicely in sandstone but I still prefer an expansion bolt.

Yep, the ASCA is doin' the good work out there!

Brian in SLC

6:08 p.m. on February 28, 2002 (EST)
(Guest)

Differing opinions

Some people think it is kind of a right of passage to use all the old ones that are up in Yo. I am not sure what the ethic is, but it seems many are reluctant to replace the existing hardware though the precedence elsewhere would dictate beef away.

Quote:

Baby angles do work nicely in sandstone but I still prefer an expansion bolt.

As for you Brian. I like those baby angles in sandstone alot more. You can see if they are good or not and I think they are alot more durable. Expansion bolts tend to hide their condition until you have to rely on them. I also like the "trad" feel of them.

hey big boy. Getting cold this weekend. Was supposed to got to kings peak this weekend, but changed our minds. Wussed because of cold.

how you doin?

matt

Quote:

Yep, the ASCA is doin' the good work out there!

Brian in SLC

4:25 p.m. on March 6, 2002 (EST)
37 reviewer rep
747 forum posts
OK - rebolt the Apron...

Quote:

fyi, as far as i know, the only folks busted for power drilling have been new routing, not REbolting (replacing aging bolts) distinct from retrobolting (adding bolts to existing lines). Wars fought over this re/retro issue recently. Hand drilling is AOK, by wilderness rules.

Are you saying that powerdrills could be used to replace bolts in Yosemite Valley? I think "Wilderness" starts 200 feet up? If so many lower parts of the Apron could maybe be powerbolted because they are not truly in "wilderness"

Quote:

if you are thinking of particular routes that you know have bad bolts, mention them to greg or any of us that volunteer with asca.

Well all over the Apron - some routes Hary Daly, Goodrich Pinnacle, many old short "Sporty" routes for extreme friction at the base of the Apron have old 1/4" button heads. The Apron is such an old area and people have been loath to replace anything there. I hate to do the old routes on the old pro - I mean atleast the FAs had new crappy bolts?

Sometimes I have a real urge to sink a RURP next to chossy bolt and equalise them - as Brian says - use body weight or less. Guess the knot don't matter much either... (;->)

Jim S

April 21, 2014
Quick Reply

Please sign in to reply

 
More Topics
This forum: Older: Sharping crampons Newer: v-section anchors & numb toes
All forums: Older: quality sled source? Newer: Hey, BillS... is this your website?