cams cams cams

9:28 a.m. on April 16, 2002 (EDT)

a.k.a. Paul, Paul R, Paul R., Paul Raphaelson, PR

I'm curious to know what kinds of cams people take with them on typical alpine climbs. I love my camalots at the crags, but they're heavier than just about anything else. In practice, how do you feel the increased expansion range compensates for their weight? Do you find yourself taking fewer camalots than you would (for example) technical friends? Do you ever double up on cam sizes, or cary a camalot and an overlapping lighter cam?
Just curious to know how people rack up when they don't know what to expect from the route and they want to travel as light as possible.

1:20 p.m. on April 16, 2002 (EDT)
0 reviewer rep
409 forum posts
Alpine rack...


I'm curious to know what kinds of cams people take with them on typical alpine climbs

I carry the flexy friends (used to be made by Wild Country but now Troll?). Mucho lighter. My "typical" alpine rack is 1-3 TCU's (metolious), .5 and .75 camalot (older style), 2-3.5 friends. With a set of stoppers. Neutrino's and/or Lowe 33 biners. Pretty light.

Brian in SLC

11:59 a.m. on April 17, 2002 (EDT)

Not really

This is what I start with and add or subtract as warranted:

#5-10 bd stopper
#4-6 bd hex
#.5 lowe tri-cam
#1 knife blade
#4 and #6 bugaboo
one 22cm bd screw for anchor
one 10cm bd screw for hard steep pitch / thin ice
four 13cm bd screws
twelve single spectra runners with one/two wire gate biner(s) each
two double spectra runners with one wire gate biner each
two hero loops
5mm prusik
23' of 7mm cordelette used mostly for rap anchors
two twist gate lockers
ten free wire gate biners

add ons:
#.5-#3 camalots
#1 lowe tricams
two 17cm screws or two more 13cm or one each
trade in half of the sewn runners for tied 9/16 for raps
another 5mm prusik
another 23' of 7mm cordelette if its big route

spingy-thingys are nice but what goes up, must come down and i would rather rap or there is nothing like the ping ping ping of a solid pin going in or the bomber security of a well placed stopper / hex when i got to step-off and commit to that piece and rap off. while i have, i choose not to and dont want to ever trust rapping off on a SLCD.

The Barking Dawg

May 25, 2018
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