Teewinot

11:05 p.m. on May 30, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

I'm taking my two sons to the Tetons for some rock climbing and hiking this summer. I'm thinking of taking them up Teewinot, maybe the East Ridge, as their first trudge up a "big" mountain.

Any good places to camp at or above the treeline? How about the East face, route finding reasonable? Water source? Any beta you have to offer would be appreciated.

6:18 p.m. on June 3, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

I dont know if you can get permission to camp up high there, but you can get backcountry permits for that sort of thing at the jenny lake ranger station.

Water is dependent on when in the summer. There are snowfields that you will have to cross untill early august(they can be treacherous - probably the most dangerous part of the day if not careful, so take an Ice tool or two if you go early). You will be able to get water from those up high, or there is a good bit of running water down lower(not much in between).

East face is relatively casual. Route finding is not easy though. Alot of 4th classing up to a pitch of 5.6. It keeps your eyes open to solo it- cause then you have to down climb it. There are ways around it to the south of the normal east face, but it makes route finding even more difficult.

It is a spectacular summit. One of the best in the range. Fanatastic view of the the north face of le grande. Go to the notch when you head down and check out that leg of the grand traverse along the ridge to Owen. Cool ground. Check out the two steep towers on your hike up as well. There is some good 5.10 routes on those as well.

Sorry it has taken awhile for you to get a reply to this message. Been traveling for work.

Good luck. It is a fun one. Most do it in a day. The trail is really steep. One of the steepest in the range(are real knee buster on the way down if you have alot of weight). I swore I would never do it again after the first time because of it(hasnt stopped me from going back though).

There are alot of good guide books for the range with the beta in it as well.

matt

4:54 p.m. on June 4, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

Thanks a lot Matt - It sounds like it might be alittle more than the boys can handle for thier first climb, and if we can't camp and have to do it in a day, it will definitely be out of the question. I'll probably solo it.
Since it sounds like you know the area well, do you have any suggestions for some down lower climbing. Some neat multi-pitch, reasonable difficulty (5.6-5.8)and cool views?

5:45 p.m. on June 4, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

Easy question

Baxter's pinnacle and/or guides wall.

Both are close to the jenny lake ranger station. Refer to guides for complete topos and such. Guide wall has many variations, but I think it is 5.8/5.7 if you take the standard route. Baxters is I think 5.9, but there is only a little of it on the last pitch(check the guide again).

You can do the walk around the lake or take the short easy way by taking the boat across the lake and hike from there.

They are both good climbs. Baxter's has a better summit view and an easier descent(some 4th classing and one rappel vs. 3-4 rapps). I cant remember guide wall having any summit, but there are some great variation pitches of harder difficulty that are really good(especially the 5.9+ thin hands crack about 4-5 pitches up).

There is the 50 classic tetons guide by Rossiter(50 most crowded). and the more comprehensive by Ottenberger I think(not sure of the author, but it is 10xs thicker and that many times as comprehensive). You can pick the guides up once you get to the area at moosley's seconds at dornans as you drive into the park.

Both are great climbs. Baxters is a little more conducive to the party of three thing.

Good luck. Give me an email if you have any more ?s.

paintrain9@netscape.net

matt

11:30 a.m. on June 7, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

a.k.a. Paul, Paul R, Paul R., Paul Raphaelson, PR

If you're going late enough in the season that most of the snow is gone, route finding isn't so bad .. there's actually a climbers trail you can follow all the way to the summit ridge. If you encounter anything resembling 5.6, or even remotely 5th class, you're way off route. The east face is 3rd class. Just beware that the exposure up high is serious, and that most of the year the route goes up or across some dangerous snow slopes. I wouldn't bring kids who didn't have experience with this kind of terrain. and i would definitely bring ice axes unless you know for sure conditions don't warrant them.

some other good 3rd class routes are the east face of buck and the east ridge of symmetry spire. these can both be done in a day if you're fit .. symmetry is quite a short climb.

Quote:

I'm taking my two sons to the Tetons for some rock climbing and hiking this summer. I'm thinking of taking them up Teewinot, maybe the East Ridge, as their first trudge up a "big" mountain.

Any good places to camp at or above the treeline? How about the East face, route finding reasonable? Water source? Any beta you have to offer would be appreciated.

10:47 a.m. on June 27, 2002 (EDT)
(Guest)

I've never climbed Teewinot but I do know the peak, particularly the East Face, has a reputation for throwing people off it. Seems like every year someone takes a tumble, and the rangers at Jenny Lake should question you regarding your level of preparation. Read recent copies of the AAC's ANAM to get an idea of what happens up there.

RP

October 24, 2014
Quick Reply

Please sign in to reply

 
More Topics
This forum: Older: Congrads BillS on you 20320 !! Newer: Mt Hood
All forums: Older: Bighorn National Forest - Wyoming Newer: Herman Survivors