Mount Moran

9:54 a.m. on July 11, 2003 (EDT)
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a.k.a. spud-climber

Just wondering if anyone has climbed Mount Moran via the CMC route? Mostly I am looking for descent information and how long the climb takes. How many ropes? Are there rap anchors, etc?

3:48 p.m. on July 11, 2003 (EDT)
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408 forum posts
CMC...

Quote:

Just wondering if anyone has climbed Mount Moran via the CMC route? Mostly I am looking for descent information and how long the climb takes. How many ropes? Are there rap anchors, etc?

Its been a number of years...but...as I recall, its a middlin' day from the lake shore, a bit shorter (obviously) from a high camp bivy sight up toward the drizzlepuss. But, I think water might be an issue up there.

We started from a camp near the bottom. Take a canoe, or, if you hike, go 'round the Leigh Lake from east to north (the southern to western lake approach used to be an old maintained trail, but, very much isn't anymore...its a total body workout for sure! Highly unrecommended...).

The climb is rated 5.4ish? We ditched the ropes for upward progress as the climbing was exposed but very easy. I think the descent route is to the climber's left of the face, down a ridge line. Helps to pay attention at the point where you top out, as the summit is huge and flat, like a non descript football field. Rappels are obvious sling wads. Mostly down climbing. I recall the crux of the route as being getting past the Drizzlepuss, mostly in the "goin' home" direction, I think. I think folks rap this section as they are headin' toward the CMC, and might belay it on the way back (we solo'd it but, was a bit harder than any climbing we encountered on the CMC).

We were a party of three and we had two ropes. Not sure if a shorter version would work, or maybe a single 70m.

The climb goes pretty fast as its mostly scrambling. Really depends on your routefinding ability, fitness and comfort level. If you belay every pitch and have some route finding problems, well, folks can take a long while for the route. The altitude whacks some folks too.

We did it comfortably in a two day weekend with the first day for the hike in to the base and the second an early start, summit by noon or so, and back to the car by early eve.

This time of year, might be a tad wet in places and no doubt, take good skeeter repellant (they are unusually frisky in this area, especially around String Lake). Later summer isn't near as bad.

The Renny guidebook describes the route very adequately (IMHO). Worth a photocopy of the route description and photo of the route.

Skillet is a great route too, and, should be fun right now. Still probably a bit of snow on it. But...do be careful with the snow/ice up there. Can be slickery.

Fun!

Brian in SLC

12:48 p.m. on August 14, 2003 (EDT)
(Guest)

a.k.a. spud-climber
Thanks Brian

Thanks Brian. The info was very helpful. I had a successful climb and really appreciate the beta. Headed up Owen this weekend, we'll see how that goes. Thanks.

November 24, 2014
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