Any good routes on Mt Jefferson

8:44 a.m. on July 4, 2004 (EDT)
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Looking for current route conditions on Mt Jeferson. I'm interested in a route without the hazzards of glacier travel. The North Ridge route seems to fit. Any info on that and any other suggestion would would helpful. Please pass on any good websites for the area.

8:44 p.m. on July 4, 2004 (EDT)
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Which Mt Jefferson?

Unfortunately, "Jefferson" is a rather popular name for peaks. Most US mountain ranges have several Mt. Jeffersons in them. The routes up them range from at least one I have been up on an excellent trail (in the White Mountains ... ooops, there are several "White Mountains", too, for example in NH, AZ, and CA/NV) to another I have been up that involved a challenging glacier climb, finished with some rock scrambling.

So, please specify which state/mountain range.

8:21 p.m. on July 5, 2004 (EDT)
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Re: Mt Jefferson in the central Oregon Casades.

I guess I do tend to confuses others who can't read my mind, but surely there is only one glaciated Mt Jefferson in the US. I was curious about the North Ridge route in particular. I plan to solo therefore I'd feel safer staying away from the glaciers. If the ridges are a horrible ordeal I guess I'll find something else to do.

1:32 p.m. on July 6, 2004 (EDT)
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Re: Mt Jefferson in the central Oregon Casades.

Ok. I won't say much about it, except that the summit pinnacle is pretty rotten rock. I am told that there is a route that goes over pretty solid rock (class 5), but I didn't find it. The way I went up was class 3, but rotten. There are approaches over the one glacier (Whitewater?) that aren't bad for soloing (it gets skied a lot). You might get current info at www.cascadeclimbers.com/ . Or ask at mtncommunity.org - one of the frequent posters there lives in Portland.

8:51 a.m. on July 12, 2004 (EDT)
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John from Kentucky??

And most recently from Borah Peak in Idaho?

-Brian in SLC

12:50 a.m. on July 15, 2004 (EDT)
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Re: John from Kentucky??

Yep, that's the correct "John." I spoke with him earlier this evening, and he mentioned talking to a "Brian" while on Borah Peak. You were with a couple other gentleman, and climbing a snow gully on a different route of the mountain, correct?

Unfortunately, Borak Peak kicked John's rear end, and even though he mentioned something about attempting Jefferson, or South Sister, later this week he decided not to do so. Instead, he opted for a miserable time in the drizzling rain on the Oregon coast, which is where he was when I spoke with him earlier.

John also mentioned that your group and he chatted briefly about the fact that he had orginally planned to be climbing in Washington this week (e.g., Rainier), but his friend had to back out. I'm that friend. John stated you all had a good laugh over something to the effect of the reason being due to "me having gotten sand in my vagin@." :-) That had me rolling, too!

However, I do have a legitimate reason for backing out - the reason being due to the need to entertain a certain lady-friend while she's on vacation with me next week. After all, a man has to have his priorities straight, doesn't he?! (let's see........climb Rainier, or entertain lady-friend?.........not a very difficult decision to make, IMHO)

Nevertheless, it sounds as though all of you had a great time in Idaho last weekend! Wish I could've been there...............

9:43 a.m. on July 19, 2004 (EDT)
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non pc fer sure...

Yeah, we did the standard NF route. Fun stuff. Mostly stiff neve and a wee bit o' ice in the final coulior.

The trail out is really steep. Can't believe it holds dirt in places. 5100' in 3.5 miles. Ugh. Legs were sore for a few days post, to be sure.

Yeah, we had some male humor goin'. Something about our panties being too tight... Funny, especially, 'cause most of the gals we climb with kick our butts...

Fun times!

-Brian in SLC

8:56 p.m. on July 19, 2004 (EDT)
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Not a bad week

The weather was nice 'till sundown. The day arround St Helens was perfect. Borah didn't entirely kick my ars but it was almost enough fun for one trip, especially with all that driving.

August 1, 2014
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