Peaks in Ladakh

3:43 p.m. on December 16, 2004 (EST)


I climbed Stok Kangri in Ladahk in 2001, and I'm heading back next summer to do some more easy peak climbing.

One peak seems to be within reach in the same mountain range as Stok Kangri, called Kang Yaze (or Yatze). The altitude should be about 6400 m.

I need a detail description about the approach and climbing route. Can anyone please help ?

If you can recommend another peak in the region, Himachal Pradesh, Kashmir, Spiti and Ladakh, I would be delighted to hear about this :-)

Best regards; Lui, Denmark

7:03 p.m. on December 16, 2004 (EST)
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This page has a few photos of Kang-Yatze, including one with the photographer's route marked:

Looks like a pretty straightforward snow climb, though the the entry on Peakware suggests that the face avalanches often:

7:16 a.m. on December 17, 2004 (EST)

Thanx for the info !

My french is not good, but I think I get the picture...

I don't think it's prone to avalanches, becauss it's only snowing in the winter time. During summer time there is no precipitation (desert like climate) so the snow field should be quite stable. Daily temperature is quit stable too which also is stabilizing factor for the snow.

The easy route is up the gentle snow-slope to the top. How do you get to the start of the route ? I guess it's from Markha Valley, but it would be nice with a map. I got the Nelles Ladahk Zanskar map, but there is no trail or path marked to base camp etc.

Any information is highly appreciated.

Best regards, Lui, Denmark

6:07 p.m. on December 17, 2004 (EST)

Hello Lui,

Have you had a look at the Indian Mountaineering Federation website?

Did you have to deal with with tthem when you climbed Stok Kangri? The overwhelming look of the beurocracy involved in doing any climbing in India has always put me off investigating any further.

If you do get your trip off the ground, could you please post a trip report or photos when you get back?? I've only seen the sea of peaks in the view from Rohtang pass towards Leh and it was mind blowing (it was the very instant I decided i had to learn to climb).

Best of luck,


10:25 a.m. on December 18, 2004 (EST)

Hi Andrew;

We climbed Stok Kangri toghether with a Scottish team, who had the papers fixed with IMF.

I admit the rules are quite strict, and the trekking peak fee on 300$ + invoriomental fee 400$ is pretty steap !!! Especially for 2 persons only !!!

This is minded on big climbing teams, not for small indepented climbers.

I think the trick is to hire a local Registered Mountaineering Guide in Leh, and let them take care ofbuissness. You will need horsemen and horses to carry your stuff anyways, and in the case of illness or injury the horses can carry you out.

Many of the trekking companies that opperates in Leh have web-pages, so instead of trying to arrange everything yourself, hand the problem over to them. I'm sure they get the permits cheaper and faster. Last time I paid about 200 rupees per day for a horse, and 600 rupees per day for the guide.

Regards; Lui

5:37 a.m. on December 22, 2004 (EST)

Hi Lui, thanks for the info. Yikes those peak fees are high. I know it's supposed to help bring money into the country but I can't help feeling it has the opposite effect (at least it does in my case). Having a foundation of planning and some objectives for a trip is really important, but the ability to improvise routes/peaks etc without going through beaurocracy is part of the pleasure of climbing. Still, with such mighty fine mountains it's just about worth the effort.

Good luck and have fun.



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