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Re: TNF Ama Dablam or Marmot Cerro Torre?

9:18 a.m. on April 8, 2007 (EDT)
5 reviewer rep
4 forum posts

Please would someone give me a little advice as to which of these is the better jacket. The trouble is I like both of them but can only really afford one. The type of weaather it is generally used for is mixed conditions like in Scottish Highlands, however, I am going to Mont Blanc later on in the year.

Your advice is greatly appreciated.


12:38 p.m. on April 9, 2007 (EDT)
2,234 reviewer rep
5,182 forum posts

From my experience with both TNF and Marmot expedition jackets is that Marmot is the better choice. I have a TNF Kichatna and a Marmot Alpinist 3. The Cerro Torre is the updated version of the Alpinist 3 (updating included "NEW COLORS!" - this from a Marmot rep - but very similar design, using the newest Gore fabric that is supposedly a big improvement over the XCR). I have used both the Kichatna and Alpinist 3 in the Alaska Range, Cascades, and on North Conway ice. Not on Scottish ice or Mont Blanc (haven't been to either in over 20 years), but the places I have used them they were both good. I took the Alpinist 3 to Antarctica in Dec, where it turned out I didn't really need the waterproofness, and the Goretex didn't really breathe well enough in the dry air. It worked really well before and after Antarctica in Patagonia in the many rainstorms.

But you might also consider similar jackets in eVent. This breathes much better than most Goretex, though the newest gtx tha both the Ama Dablam and Cerro Torre are made of are claimed to be as or more breathable than eVent. Wild Things in the US and Montane in UK make comparable jackets in eVent.

5:12 p.m. on April 11, 2007 (EDT)
5 reviewer rep
4 forum posts

Many thanks for your email. I would agree with you. I have this weekend tried both jackets on and I must say that the Marmot feels and fits better than the TNF Ama Dablam.

On the subject of eVent jackets, I have a Rab Latok in 3 layer eVent. This is a absolutely superb jacket which has been praised by mountaineers all throughout the mountaineering community. I still love it and have worn it in some of the most horrendous conditions.

I have made up my and will purchase the Cerro Torre.

Many Thanks

10:12 p.m. on April 19, 2007 (EDT)
12 reviewer rep
102 forum posts

Dan Quayle is on the board of Marmont's parent company, and as a Democrat, I'd never buy a Marmot product, (except for maybe their rain jackets).

1:26 p.m. on April 20, 2007 (EDT)
2,234 reviewer rep
5,182 forum posts

Ya know, if the political/religious/etc affiliation of board members, executives, managers, employees, or customers were a valid criterion for choosing a product, nobody would buy anything. The great thing about this country is that people of all beliefs and practices work for, own, and direct companies making, distributing, and selling everything we eat, wear, live in, drive, ride in and on.

Please keep politics and religion out of these discussions (before you make assumptions, I am of the "plague on both your houses" inclination when it comes to both major political parties and most of the minor ones, too - although we have 7 recognized parties in this state)

April 18, 2014
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