First all-Sherpa team summits Everest

2:11 p.m. on May 16, 2007 (EDT)
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This morning (May 16, Nepal time) the first all-Sherpa team summited Everest. They came up from the south side. No furriners on the team, so no carrying somebody else's loads for miniscule wages while the folks paying tens of thousands get all the glory. Two of the team, Apa Sherpa, 47 and Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, 39, currently live in Utah.

http://deseretsherpa.blogspot.com/

6:10 p.m. on May 16, 2007 (EDT)
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Bill, I saw a story on this on the net. The most amazing thing about this is that this climb is Appa's 17 Everest summit-a new record which he also held at 16. Talk about beating the odds. BTW, if you haven't read Ed Viestur's book, No Shortcuts to the Top, it's a pretty good read.

Story link-
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap_travel/20070516/ap_tr_ge/travel_brief_nepal_everest

6:57 p.m. on May 16, 2007 (EDT)
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Great news about the Sherpa team -- a long-overdue achievement.

OT: I wasn't terribly impressed with Viesturs's book. For the source material he had to work with, it seemed very one-dimensional. A lot of exposition, not much color. I also found the chronology very confusing -- all the non-linear digressions ended up obscuring the main thread of the story.

12:55 a.m. on May 17, 2007 (EDT)
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Ed V isn't that great a writer, which is why Dave Roberts ghosted most of the book. It is, I have to agree, rather an untypical format and narrative method for a climber's adventure book. Maybe it was more interesting to me, since I know Ed (slightly), and because it answered some questions I had been a little reluctant to ask him about directly.

I will also have to recommend Dave Roberts' own book On the Ridge Between Life and Death. It is a big departure from his early works (Deborah, Mountain of my Fear, etc), and I think you will recognize some of the stylistics that carried over into his ghosting of Ed's book.

Hopefully, some of the people who posted back in the Everest thread admiring the "great adventure" of the Discovery Channel show series will read these books and get a better understanding of what climbing is really all about.

10:15 a.m. on May 17, 2007 (EDT)
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I was quite surprised to hear this was the first all-sherpa team to make the summit. I just assumed this would have happened by now.

I'll second the Robert's book, On the Ridge Between Life and Death, it's a great read. I read Deborah and Mountain of my Fear many years ago and feel a need to reread them after this latest book.

6:15 p.m. on May 17, 2007 (EDT)
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"Ed V isn't that great a writer, which is why Dave Roberts ghosted most of the book."

I asked Ed, so, what'd you get out of the Roberts guy, anyhow. He replied that David wrote the whole book. Then I said, yeah, so, what did you get again?, and chuckled.

At first blush I didn't much care for the book either. Then I re-read it and really liked it, which, I still think as kind of odd.

Wasn't a huge fan of Roberts' book On the Ridge... Didn't really grab or resonate with me, and, I thought some of the highly personal details didn't add to the tale much, but, made for painful reading. Interesting put, though, from a guy who was cutting edge to be sure. Mountain of My Fear still might be my favorite climbing tome.

Some folks here at work follow the Sherpa thing, as, since they're kinda local (I think they live here in some of the off season), they've been in the local media a ton. I'll have to say I haven't bothered keeping up. The Everest thing seems soooo tired for me these days. Even with an old climbing bud back there now with huge media support, just isn't that interesting.

-Brian in SLC

7:50 p.m. on May 17, 2007 (EDT)
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Dave, I had the same problem with Viesturs' book-all the jumping around in time, but liked it anyway. I don't know that much about high altitude climbing and how expeditions are put together, so I learned quite a bit from it. I recognized many of the names. I recall reading a book by Meissner years ago about his climbs. I know that Viesturs got some criticism about the way he climbed-not putting up new routes, etc., but I think what he and any of those people did is pretty amazing. He's still alive to talk about it and many of the others are not.

I was surprised at how much of the time near the top, climbers weren't roped up or sometimes even near each other. That, plus how little he ate and how little gear they carried near the summits was news to me.

Given that the book is basically all about Ed and not climbing in general, I think it's worth reading. I don't expect any of these kinds of books to be great literature.

December 28, 2014
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