6:42 p.m. on February 17, 2011 (EST)
denis daly said:
Tom the case with Chourinard was a climbing harness..thats what led to him selling the company..The person who perished was a Doctor and the widow sued..I remember reading the case in Outside mag...The webbing I believe slipped backout the buckle and the Doctor slipped out of the harness. But common sense would tell you it's dangerous...As for what your getting at the fake petzle's.That has to be a huge impact on the industry..
denis,
Sorry, but I have to make a few corrections to your version of the story. Correct that the incident with Chouinard involved a climbing harness. The rest of the story is fairly far off, though.
The situation was that a group of lawyers, all from the same firm in the Southeast, took a climbing trip to the West. Their first stop was Rainier, which they all climbed (with a guide service, RMI, which was the only authorized guide service on Rainier at the time). They next headed to the Tetons, where they went through a climbing course that was to have done the Grand Teton as the "graduation" of the course. I believe that it was Exum, though I have forgotten right now. Their instructor was Jim Bridwell, a friend of mine from my Yosemite Valley days in the 1960s, who I still talk to from time to time. The group had been taken through the basics of rock climbing and were on their last multipitch climb before heading for the Grand. Jim had led the pitch, which went up a short distance, then out around a roof. The first of the group was following and was out of sight of the rest of the group, but not yet in sight of Jim, so no one is sure exactly what happened. The climber apparently fell, because he came in sight of the rest of the group and fell some distance. I do not recall whether he died instantly, but he was dead by the time rescuers could get to him. Examination of the scene showed that he had fallen out of his harness. It was apparent that the belt had not been doubled back through the buckle. While no one knows for sure, the evidence was that the victim had stepped aside to relieve himself, taking the harness off to do so, then failed to put it back on properly.
The suit came from the law firm and was filed against everyone in sight - the guide service, Jim, the Park Service, and Great Pacific Iron Works, manufacturer of the harness. The guide service, Jim, and Great Pacific Iron Works (located in Ventura, California) had no assets to speak of (all of Great Pacific Iron Works' tooling and machinery was leased), and the Park Service is not responsible in general for incidents. Chouinard was not the direct owner of Great Pacific Iron Works, and in fact what little assets the company had was sold to a group of the employees (basically only the "Diamond C" logo and rights to the designs), who formed Black Diamond, a company located in Salt Lake City. The other company founded by Chouinard, Patagonia, was completely separate from and independent of Great Pacific Iron Works. Chouinard Equipment was the parent and original company, under which Great Pacific Iron Works and Patagonia fell.
This suit, along with several others at about the same time, led to the marking of virtually all climbing gear or its packaging with the "climbing is dangerous" warnings, and ultimately to similar labels on all gear and all venues for "risk sports". Several similar suits in the 1980s led to the Sierra Club dropping all outings that involved risk sports (notably climbing and white water), with prompting of the insurance companies, who raised their rates by huge amounts). This affected many other climbing clubs as well. At one point, the Sierra Club defined "climbing" as anything that involved a rope and issued a directive forbidding carrying ropes along on any trip. This later was modified to ropes ok to be carried in case of emergency, but you can't use them for climbing during the trip.
I have left out many details, mostly in the interest of keeping it from being too long.