Figure Four?!

9:52 a.m. on July 6, 2011 (EDT)
4,270 reviewer rep
1,376 forum posts

Okay, is there any use for the figure four move in rock (not indoor plastic) climbing?

It looks a lot like a gym rat gimmick to impress rather than get up a rock.

Maybe I am mistaken.  Help me out.


11:30 a.m. on July 6, 2011 (EDT)
102 reviewer rep
2,360 forum posts

Its supposed to be an ice move.  I know very few ice climbers; none of which use this move.  A general consensus is it appears more for show, and in any case it would be pretty hard to avoid getting the rope tangled up in your tools and crampons as you shift in and out of fours. Also the move places a lot of dymanic force on tool placements, increasing the risk of ice failure.


11:40 a.m. on July 6, 2011 (EDT)
736 reviewer rep
289 forum posts

There's no point to that in the "real" world what-so-ever.  Having spent the better part of my life as a rock climber (and many years as an ice climber when living in Wyoming), I'd never even consider partnering up with someone who used that move.

10:06 a.m. on July 7, 2011 (EDT)
4,270 reviewer rep
1,376 forum posts

Thanks fellas.  Its good to have my instincts validated.  So I can put off learning that move!

Actually, if I ever get to climbing a 5.10 I'd be kinda surprised.  Thats kind of The Grail to me I'm working on leading short 5.8 and doing toproped 5.9.  I'm still too high in the belly to forearm ratio!

2:26 p.m. on July 7, 2011 (EDT)
270 reviewer rep
1,469 forum posts


October 9, 2015
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