Move from Gym to Crag with the Access Fund

8:55 a.m. on April 9, 2013 (EDT)
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This thread is for comments on the article "Move from Gym to Crag with the Access Fund"

Want to make the transition from rock gym to crag? The Access Fund offers up advice for responsible outdoor climbing practices that help preserve climbing access.

Full article at

2:06 p.m. on April 9, 2013 (EDT)
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1,625 forum posts

I like this article, I can't count how many times I have heard, "this is my first send on real rock."

Two of my kids have still never climbed in a gym, just rock.  We're kinda proud of that. 

My 2 cents:

In the gym: People stretch and lay down below the routes.

At the crag: Rocks break loose and gear sometimes falls

Do this instead: Wear a helmet when belaying and don't hang out near active climbs, look up and pay attention. 

12:29 a.m. on April 11, 2013 (EDT)
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1,377 forum posts

This article has some great advice. In the middle of my climbing career, I encountered climbers who knew nothing of conservation. The bota bag and the route was all  they knew. In the Sierra, it was one reason I stopped doing regular routes. Even if it had been done before, I wanted to feel like I was the first, and experienced the route in my own way. Whether it was a hard route or easy 3 class, I wanted to feel like an explorer, and leave nothing, and take nothing but my memories.

April 19, 2018
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