Good Gracious!! I have never used anything quite like…
Materials: Synthetic with cotton lining in toes and heel
Use: agressive sport slimbing, bouldering, steep climbing.
Break-in Period: about 10 sends (doesn't stretch but softens)
Price Paid: n/a (pro price)
Good Gracious!! I have never used anything quite like it. Most similar to the La Sportiva Katana with the half symmetrical last, but with the camber and tons of rubber it is much more aggressive. The more symmetrical shape gives you intense outside edge control.
In my opinion it is the best heel ever (the evolv Tallon, Pontas lace, and La Sportiva Katana are close), although you may find it a little tight if you have a chubby heel. High performance and then some!
It fits about a half size smaller than the Pontas fit (8.5 Pontas = 9 Optimus fit). and compared to the Katana a 39 is about equivalent to an Optimus 9.
Here's what other sites are saying:
Edge steep areas like a climbing machine in the Optimus Slipper rock shoe from Evolv. Void of a hook and loop closure, Evolv was able to put more Trax rubber over the top of the foot to go with the Trax oval grid on the toe, combined with the hi-friction rubber sole, you'll have both high performance and extra traction.
- Mountain Gear
The Evolv Optimus is the third installment in the Sharma Signature Series of shoes. Designed on a down cambered last, the Optimus is a more sensitive version of its big brother the Optimus Prime. The Optimus offers a symmetric toe box (rounded toe box) and an oval grid pattern rand for added protection and for improved toe hooking.
The third installment in the Sharma Signature Series of shoes, the Evolv Optimus Climbing Shoe is designed on a completely different last than any other climbing shoe. The Optimus offers a symmetric toe box (rounded toe box) and also has the oval grid pattern rand for added protection and for improved toe hooking. Designed on a down cambered last, the Optimus is a more sensitive version of its big brother the Optimus Prime.
- Altrec Outdoors
The Evolv Optimus Slipper Climbing Shoe is part of the Sharma Signature Series of shoes, and has been personally created by Chris to have a more symmetrical toe box. This design creates a technical slipper that can grab small holds, stand on dime sized edges and slips on with ease. The Optimus Slipper is similar to the Optimus Prime, but because it has no hook and loop closure, Evolv could put more Trax rubber over the top of the foot. This is awesome for severe toe/heel hooks on steep rock, yet allows the foot to fit in the shoe without toe pain. A slingshot design keeps the slipper secure and plenty of pull tabs gets these shoes on and off quickly.