i tried this shoe out and the optimus prime. i wear…
Use: techy climbs, bouldering, medium diff. tope rope and leads
Break-in Period: 20-30 climbs
Price Paid: $115
i tried this shoe out and the optimus prime. i wear a street 13 and bought these in a 12. good toe knuckles when i tried them but the opimus prime had a smaller more aggressive heel, while the toe pinched. i bought the pontas, after about 30 climbs in 3 days i noticed dead space in the heel. i'm slightly disappointed. one of my friends complained of the same thing.
overall a good shoe, i plan on ordering a 11.5 in a bit to see if that closes up the dead heel space.
Very versatile and sensitive. It has a 3/4 length…
Materials: cotton lined synthetic
Use: bouldering, sport climbing, competition
Break-in Period: initial: about ten medium routes. total: a few weeks
Price Paid: N/A (pro price)
Very versatile and sensitive. It has a 3/4 length semi stiff midsole which softens a bit and flexes. Put that together with the asymmetrical (pointed toe) profile and you get a good blend of edge and pushability with good sensitivity.
It isn't necessarily a powerful edging shoe. I tend to blow off of small holds in vertical high tension liebacks and oppositions, but I can always find the sweet spot on any little foot chip. For average to delicate footwork edging, smearing and toe pointing they excel.
To compare them to other shoes, they edge as well as the La Sportiva Viper and almost as well as the La Sportiva Katana or 5-10 Anasazi vcs, but that is combined with a toe that is just as sensitive as the La Sportiva Venom and the Cobra. If you are climbing a route that you would break out your Muras or Anasazi laceups for than this might be a little soft, but that is where the Pontas Lace comes in.
The heel is snug side to side and fairly snug at the rand. Really a moderately to mildly aggressive heel rand, comfy but keeps tension. If you have always found dead space behind your heel in Five Ten or Sportiva, then evolv is for you.
In the Pontas you may find a little space behind the bottom of your heel, but above that bottom corner it sits close to the back of your heel all the way up (incidentally the Pontas Lace fits the heel a little more snugly, especially at the base of the heel). With no midsole in the heel and thin rubber the heel is very sensitive, but doesn't protect your heel very much so sharp holds will bite you, but it is easy to tell if you aren't locked into the heel hook.
The toe rand is a great accessory. It makes it easy to scum and hook the top of your foot and helps with crack jams (cracks are not an ideal use of the shoe, but it works in a pinch).
The shoe seems to fit best on average volume, narrow to average feet. An 8.5 Pontas fits close to a 39 Sportiva Katana or Venom or a 9 Anasazi. It will soften in the first few days, but should not be fit for stretch. It should just feel a little stiff over the toes and that will soften out.
One of the biggest complaints about evolv is that the synthetic fabric starts to smell, but synthetic fabric is also washable, just don't machine dry them, the black rubber will mess over your dryer.
Bottom line: If you wouldn't NEED your laceups, downturned shoe, or crack boot, then these will do it. From slabs to severe overhangs they do the trick.
Here's what other sites are saying:
The Evolv Pontas is an all-around high performance shoe that fuses precision, power, and responsiveness in an excellent glove-like fit. The heel is on of Evolv's best that fits securely from base of the heel to the achilles without discomfort and deadspace. The shoe is equipped with an extended toe rand that is functional for toe-hooking without feeling excessive and the tri-grooves relieves pressure off the big toe. The 3/4 length semi stiff midsole provides the ideal balance of edging power and responsiveness from toe through the arch.
Designed by Chris Sharma himself, the Pontas from Evolv has a glove-like fit for control on micro-edges, performance on all textures and a power transferring design for every move you can think of. Push to the next level with this incredibly nimble and focused rock shoe.
- Mountain Gear
With a design influenced by Chris Sharma, Evolv created the first signature-series climbing shoes, the Pontas. Chris needed a piece of precision footwear to send his deep water soloing project \223Es Pontas,\224 and Evolv brought him the goods with a sticky TRAX XT-5 sole and a stretch-resistant Synthratek synthetic upper. The Pontas Climbing Shoe takes on the most technically demanding boulder problems and sport climbs with ease. And deep water soloing\227it does that too.
Chris Sharmas favorite allaround performance shoe for sending the worlds hardest climbs The Pontas is an excellent bouldering sport and gym shoe with superior edging powerFeatures Designed for focusing and delivering power to the toe Nonstretch material for consistent performance Extended toe rand for toe hooking Asymmetrical toe profile KA1 last SOLE 42mm TRAX XT5 high friction rubber RAND 22mm TRAX durorand UPPER Nonstretch Synthratek synthetic upper LINING Cotton fiber lining MIDSOLE MXS 15mm 34 length semistiff SIZES 5 to 135 US men