User Review: Five Ten Ascent
Use: long trad routes, slab climbing
Break-in Period: 2 weeks (a little stretch)
Price Paid: $95
I purchased this pair of shoes roughly four years ago and use them esclusively on long trad routes. The EVO sole cushions impact on descents and boudering, but for me it serves its purpose hanging out on belay ledges. They smear on both low and high angle friction like a dream as the C4 rubber is just amazing.
I wanted to size them a 1/2 size larger to accomodate the digets, knowing full well that the purpose for these shoes was of the "all day" nature. I feel, despite my decision for comfort, that I lost little to no performance. They edge nicely, though not quite as good as their counter part the VCS or Galileo, but sufficient for what I climb with them.
The velcro makes them great for easy on easy off changovers and the sensitivity rivals that of the Moccasym. Some find the split padded tongue a hinderance, and I have even heard it said that it makes the shoe a bit sloppy and hot. I have found neither to be true, but certainly any time you add padding to a shoe, some compromises will have to be made. This is a great intermediate, to advanced intermediate shoe and can't be beat on the epic journey on stone we often take!