Five Ten Galileo
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $150
A great all around shoe. Very durable. I bought this shoe in 2009 and have done countless hours of gym climbing as well as outdoor climbing. I am now sending it in to get resoled since I like the shoe so much.
- Sticky rubber
- Shoe stiffness dissapears after heavy use.
The shoe fits a little wide. The suede will stretch a little after heavy use. Very comfortable fit if fitted properly. Very durable shoe. This is a high quality American made product.
Materials: "Cowdura" synthetic upper w/liner. Stealth Onyx rubber.
Use: Gym bouldering and climbing, outdoor bouldering.
Break-in Period: 24-36 hours of climbing over a month
Price Paid: $130
Great shoe, will buy again if these get trashed. This is a relatively stiff/supportive shoe for edging, but it smears okay. The materials and construction are fairly durable, and the Stealth Onyx rubber is indeed both stickier and more durable than the industry-reference Stealth C4.
In general, Five Ten shoes are designed for wider feet than Mad Rock or Italian makes, and the Galileo is no exception. The designed fit is a good compromise between performance and comfort, with a straight big toe butting (somewhat tightly) against the end, and remaining toes curled (not tightly) against the end. The synthetic upper backed with lining stretches VERY LITTLE, if at all, meaning that the fit you get initially is the fit you will keep. (You better make sure that's the fit you want. Undersize it, and the pain will never go away as it will NOT "stretch-to-fit".) I have found that the Five Ten sizing scheme for this shoe matches your running/tennis shoe size, assuming you have those fit correctly for performance.
Break-in Period: I didn't really pay attention...But they break in great
I absolutely love these shoes. I have the sport/trad model (ones with the roadrunner near the toes). They are a great all around shoe. I've done multi-pitch routes with them and they were still comfortable after five pitchs. They fit great too. The heel cup is perfect. It really holds your heel in there when doing heel hooks and whatnot. The Onyx rubber is incredible you can definitely tell a difference. If you're looking for a high performace shoe that can do it all and still be comfortable the Galileo is your shoe.
Materials: good ones
Break-in Period: all-season
Price Paid: $109
A great shoe!
It will realy help you climb harder routes... You can probably do the 89% but this will make you do the last ten percent (face it, nothing will help you for the last 1%.