Five Ten Newton
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $118
Comfortable and decent performance
- Decent price
- Solid forefoot
- Not very aggressize
Not a real aggressive shoe, but comfortable enough to make standing around not a painful experience. I like the heavier sole at the front; provides decent support when going straight in, and good for edging. The only climbing shoe I've found that doesn't torture my frostbitten toes.
The 's' lacing lets you get a real nice fit all the way down, and allows compensation for a higher arch or a wider foot. I've always liked Five Ten's rubber, and this is no exception. The smearing isn't great, but it works well enough on most surfaces.
Like the previous poster, I had to go a size large! Tried an 11, my usual street size, and had to bump up to a size 12.
Materials: "cowdura" a fake leather (won't stretch)
Use: high-level technical rock climbing
Break-in Period: short
Weight: less than a pound?
Price Paid: $139
A very nice shoe for all but the most radical climbs! They are primarily great edging shoes, yet they do not have the toe-down, radical shape that you see in shoes designed for the most modern sport climbs.
They fit my feet really well. They are not so uncomfortable that I can't wear them for longer climbs. The chisel toe works well in thin cracks and pockets. Five Ten Stealth C4 rubber is simply the best. These puppies stick to everything well. I climb primarily trad style up to 5.11 or so - usually on granite and schist (New England). These have become my trusted partners on all my harder climbs except smearing slabs. I have also used them indoors and for bouldering. They really do edge extremely well. They make standing around on dime edges a much more tenable proposition.
They offer decent sensitivity but are certainly not world-class in that department. I feel that sensitivity has improved with break-in; or it could be that I'm just now totally used to them and feel confident in them.
The upper is made from a faux leather that Five Ten calls 'Cowdura'. This is great in that it has good feel and doesn't stretch.
Sizing: my street shoe size is 8.5. My Newtons are a size 9. I was surprised at this. Usually I have to size down from my street shoe size.
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