La Sportiva Miura
Price Paid: $159
This shoe is perfect!! I was cautious about getting a velcro shoe, but this holds just as tight as laces and is much easier to take off/on.
It took me from climbing a shaky 5.8 to a comfortable 5.9/10. I couldn't believe how much more confidence it gave my footing. It can smear and edge without any issues.
I use it indoor and outdoor. Mostly outdoor.
I have owned three different types of shoes and these are by far the best. Just buy these!!! You will be so glad you did.
Break-in Period: 1-2 weeks
Price Paid: $200 AUS
I have been on the hunt for a shoe that fits my heel and so far the Miura is as close as it gets.
My first pair of climbing shoes was the Red Chili X Cube which had a heel that fitted me quite nicely but the shoe was 1-2 sizes too big. I later tried a Chilis again but super tight and due to the arch in your foot, the heel wasn't as effective anymore.
The DENTEX material the Miuras are lined with are real rough on your toes especially if you fit them super tight and lead to calluses.
The vibram rubber is no way as sticky as stealth C4 or stealth Onyx but the Miuras have a stiff sole which gives you confidence on little edges.
I'm a street size 9US and my Miuras are 37 EUR.
The break-in period was painful and long. Took a solid 2 weeks with plastic freezer bags on before they didn't hurt as much but I still have to take them off between problems.
They are a great all rounder shoe.
Break-in Period: 3-5 climbing trips
Price Paid: who cares
LaSportiva makes the highest quality of climbing shoes. The Miuras are no exception to this. This is my favorite shoe when I need surgical prescion for scary pull downs. It is extremely comfortable after break in. They will stretch 1/2 size, buy them smaller to accommodate this. The edging of this shoe is unbeliaviable. Also the new XS grip rubber is the best all around rubber, even better the stealth c4. I have never had problems with friction in this shoes. If they feet your feet proper, and you want to take your climbing to the next level buy them.
Use: aggressive climbing
Break-in Period: weeks
Price Paid: $145
Pretty comfortable for an aggressive shoe. Great toeing & edging, good for boulder problems, overhangs, toe-hooks.
Not impressed with the stickiness of the rubber; I've blown quite a few feet on technical slab problems. The back of the shoe can produce some pain on the achilles tendon. Mine lasted me a year and some change.
Overall, I recommend them!
Materials: Lined leather
Break-in Period: short
I haven't found them to be all that sticky. They do however edge superbly, toe hook like my middle finger. And they are pretty comfy, mine are breaking in after only a few climbs. They do stretch a half size to a size. Buy 'em good and snug and than buy them a half size smaller or you will be disappointed! Overall I am looking forward to working some more sport and trad routes in them.
Use: technical face climbs / rock climbing
Price Paid: $130
They are a precise shoe, which edge very well. They fit a narrow-medium width foot. The rubber is not as soft as C4. However, I wear them on all routes unless the rock has poor friction or it is consistently steep. For lower friction rock and past vertical routes, I prefer Scarpa slippers.
Break-in Period: 3-4 trips
Price Paid: $100-$120
I've been climbing in Miuras for three years now. They are absolutely the best edgeing shoe I've found! As far as an all around, there's nothing better that I've tried. Miuras are comfy, clingy, and an all around high performing shoe.
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