Mammut Smart

3 reviews
5-star:   2
4-star:   1
3-star:   0
2-star:   0
1-star:   0

Reviews

1

Easy to use in a very similar way to a traditional…

Rating: rated 5 of 5 stars
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $24

Summary

Easy to use in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate, but with added security.

Pros

  • Assisted braking
  • Simple to use
  • Very light

Cons

  • Can jam on thick climbing centre ropes

I wanted an assisted braking belay device to give my wife more confidence in lead belaying. The Smart is just what I needed as it operates in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate but gives added security of assisted braking.

It's very light to carry and quick and easy to set up with no moving parts to the device. The lowering and paying out action is slightly different to a plate device but not too dissimilar to take too long to learn.

It does not like thick, well worn climbing centre, in place top ropes, but works really well with all of my lead ropes.

I use this with a DMM Belay Master to prevent cross loading and it's a great combination.

We did try a Grigri, but found to be such a different action to a normal plate that smooth use did not come easily. Perhaps given more time a Grigri would have won us over. At least with the Smart I can get more gear in my luggage allowance!

1

Whether I am leading an Intro to Rock or Ice Day or…

Rating: rated 5 of 5 stars

Whether I am leading an Intro to Rock or Ice Day or just out climbing with my friends the Mammut Smart is always with me in all seasons.

It is very easy to use and great because it can be used with one finger (but I wouldn't recommend that). The device doing most of the work in the brake position is great for those cold ice climbing days when it is a little bit harder to grip the rope, and the release is great. It takes a couple of times to get used to the release but what belay device doesnt.

I have had most of my friends use it and they all own them now and the ones that don't always want to borrow mine.

1

For my first purchase of a belay device, I wanted…

Rating: rated 4 of 5 stars
Price Paid: $29.95

For my first purchase of a belay device, I wanted something versatile, but user-friendly. Having only used the Petzl GriGri in the past, I needed something light weight and affordable, functional for both top-rope and leading, but intuitive for a novice. After discussing the options with some friends at my local REI, I was excited and most interested in the SMART. When my Dividend came out, it was mine.

The first time using it at my local climbing gym, I noticed that there was a learning curve, but it was very steep. The first thing I noticed is that when the device is new, it has the tendency to lock when feeding and taking-in rope, however - IT IS NOT AN AUTO-LOCKING BELAY. There are comments out there that it has this feature, but I feel it cannot be depended upon to do so.

As our climbing session went on, (whether wearing-in the device or getting used to its functionality) I found it fed very well and rappelled very smoothly at varying speeds. It held securely when I needed to and arrested falls very easily though dynamically with little pressure needing to be applied.

All-in-all:

-Feeds differently from other belay devices (directly in front of the belayer rather than to the side), but is easy to get used-to

-Stops falls quickly but dynamically, requiring little pressure on the rope to arrest a fall

-Rappels very smoothly at varying speeds

-Easy to learn - could be used by a brand-new climber or expert alike

Overall, I look forward to years of use out of this device!

Manufacturer's Description

Visit Mammut's Smart page.

Retailers' Descriptions

Here's what other sites are saying:

Mammut Smart Alpine Belay DeviceHave fun with your friends and family on your belaying or rappelling adventures using the Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. One of the most interesting features of this climbing equipment is that it is the first belay device with braking force support and can be used with twin and half ropes and single ropes, exerting the braking action itself, in case of a fall. This belay has been tested in the lab and in the field, making them safe and providing high quality. Since new climbing ropes are being developed all the time, the Smart Alpine Belay comes in two versions, Smart Alpine 7.5 - 9.5 (silver), best if used with double rope or thin single ropes and the Smart Alpine 8.9 - 10.5 (black), suitable for larger single ropes. It doesn't matter if you are a recreational climber or an extreme mountaineer, set your trust on the Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device.

- SunnySports

Look no further than the Mammut Smart Belay Package when you want maximum safety and versatility. The highly versatile Smart belay device proves its worth when you take it on multipitches, with the ability to belay like a standard device, catch falls like an auto-locker, rappel, and belay directly from the anchors for easy times on the wall. Mammut built the Element Smart HMS Carabiner specifically for the Smart belay device by preventing it from cross-loading, because of the internal gate. A twistlock gate secures the gate automatically, and the keylock nose prevents the rope from snagging.

- Backcountry.com

Free Shipping. Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device FEATURES of the Mammut Smart Alpine The alpine version of the award-winning Smart can also be used with Half Ropes as well with Single Ropes, making it the ideal companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits Excellent qualities as the Smart Dynamic braking of the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user The Smart Alpine can also be used to independently belay one or two second climbers in an auto locking mode from the fixed point Ideal for abseiling Black-red version for use with rope diameters of 8.9 to 10.5 mm, Silver-red version for use with rope diameters of 7.5 to 9.5 mm The SPECS of the Mammut Smart Alpine Weight: 135 g, 125 g ALL CLIMBING SALES ARE FINAL.

- Moosejaw

The Smart Alpine Belay Device from Mammut can be used with double and half ropes, as wel with thin single ropes, making it a great companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits. When it comes to belaying, the Smart Alpine offers the same excellent qualities as the award-winning Smart Belay device. Dynamic braking of the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user. It can also be used to independently belay one or two second climbers in a autolocking mode form the fixed point.

- CampSaver.com