Mammut Smart

For my first purchase of a belay device, I wanted something versatile, but user-friendly. Having only used the Petzl GriGri in the past, I needed something light weight and affordable, functional for both top-rope and leading, but intuitive for a novice. After discussing the options with some friends at my local REI, I was excited and most interested in the SMART. When my Dividend came out, it was mine.

The first time using it at my local climbing gym, I noticed that there was a learning curve, but it was very steep. The first thing I noticed is that when the device is new, it has the tendency to lock when feeding and taking-in rope, however - IT IS NOT AN AUTO-LOCKING BELAY. There are comments out there that it has this feature, but I feel it cannot be depended upon to do so.

As our climbing session went on, (whether wearing-in the device or getting used to its functionality) I found it fed very well and rappelled very smoothly at varying speeds. It held securely when I needed to and arrested falls very easily though dynamically with little pressure needing to be applied.

All-in-all:

-Feeds differently from other belay devices (directly in front of the belayer rather than to the side), but is easy to get used-to

-Stops falls quickly but dynamically, requiring little pressure on the rope to arrest a fall

-Rappels very smoothly at varying speeds

-Easy to learn - could be used by a brand-new climber or expert alike

Overall, I look forward to years of use out of this device!

Whether I am leading an Intro to Rock or Ice Day or just out climbing with my friends the Mammut Smart is always with me in all seasons.

It is very easy to use and great because it can be used with one finger (but I wouldn't recommend that). The device doing most of the work in the brake position is great for those cold ice climbing days when it is a little bit harder to grip the rope, and the release is great. It takes a couple of times to get used to the release but what belay device doesnt.

I have had most of my friends use it and they all own them now and the ones that don't always want to borrow mine.