Great shoe for the price. I sized these the same as…
Materials: synthetic leather
Use: gym, all-day routes, cragging
Break-in Period: 6 x 3 hour sessions without baking
Price Paid: $60
Great shoe for the price. I sized these the same as my street shoes, but would recommend sizing 0.5 to 1 full European shoe size smaller as the shoes do stretch a bit. The toe box fits wider than the Scarpa and Sportiva designs, which for me is more comfortable.
The rubber is good and sticky, and the moldable foam is quite comfortable and does make the footbed feel reasonably secure, but at the trade-off of decreased sensitivity. The rubber thickness in the toe is fairly thick which is a bonus for increased lifespan, but again, at the cost of decreased sensitivity.
Generous rubber in the heel makes hooking reasonably secure and comfortable. Be skeptical of people who say the rubber doesn't last...I think it's because they have bad technique. Complaints I have heard about these shoes wearing down fast have generally been from new climbers with these being their first or second pair of shoes. The rubber is soft and sticky, which means it will not hold up well to newbie and/or sloppy foot-scraping technique.
I have worn these shoes in the gym for 6 months now climbing mostly mid 5.11's and V4 problems, for between 2-3 times climbing per week and the shoes show an average level of wear. This is typical of at least 4 others in the gym with the same shoes, climbing ability and climbing frequency.
The artificial uppers don't breathe very well, and can make your feet get quite sweaty, which, if the shoe is not snug, will make your foot slip a bit more on very small holds.