Materials: synthetic leather
Use: gym, all-day routes, cragging
Break-in Period: 6 x 3 hour sessions without baking
Price Paid: $60
Great shoe for the price. I sized these the same as my street shoes, but would recommend sizing 0.5 to 1 full European shoe size smaller as the shoes do stretch a bit. The toe box fits wider than the Scarpa and Sportiva designs, which for me is more comfortable.
The rubber is good and sticky, and the moldable foam is quite comfortable and does make the footbed feel reasonably secure, but at the trade-off of decreased sensitivity. The rubber thickness in the toe is fairly thick which is a bonus for increased lifespan, but again, at the cost of decreased sensitivity.
Generous rubber in the heel makes hooking reasonably secure and comfortable. Be skeptical of people who say the rubber doesn't last...I think it's because they have bad technique. Complaints I have heard about these shoes wearing down fast have generally been from new climbers with these being their first or second pair of shoes. The rubber is soft and sticky, which means it will not hold up well to newbie and/or sloppy foot-scraping technique.
I have worn these shoes in the gym for 6 months now climbing mostly mid 5.11's and V4 problems, for between 2-3 times climbing per week and the shoes show an average level of wear. This is typical of at least 4 others in the gym with the same shoes, climbing ability and climbing frequency.
The artificial uppers don't breathe very well, and can make your feet get quite sweaty, which, if the shoe is not snug, will make your foot slip a bit more on very small holds.
Where to Buy
The Montrail Magnet is not available from the stores we monitor.
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Here's what other sites are saying:
The Magnet climbing shoe from Montrail sticks like a force field, from heel hook V12s to warmed-up, run-out slabs.
- Mountain Gear refers to the unisex version
Rest on a dime in your Montrail Magnet Climbing Shoe. These climbing shoes feature Montrail's stickiest rubber, Gryptonite HT, and thermo-moldable foam built into the upper so you can customize your fit. The Magnet's Gryptonite soles combine extremely high friction with hardness, so you stick to the rock face like, well, a magnet to metal, yet these soles will hold up to lots of wear. Montrail's thermo-moldable foam lets you get a superb tight fit, which will give you more power and better pressure distribution than the average climbing shoe. Heat them in an oven and then put them on to mold them or just allow them to mold to your feet over time-both methods work. An edging platform under your forefoot enhances stability and power, a flexible heel lets you move and flex as needed to dance up that face, and the pointed toe lets you wedge into cracks and pockets.
- Backcountry Outlet refers to the unisex version
CLOSEOUTS . Montrail's Magnet rock climbing shoe is equipped with a Gryptonite HT (high test) outsole, providing one of the highest friction coefficients of any climbing rubber on the market. CTX thermo-moldable foam in the heel and toe section Asymmetric lacing Dual pull-on loops Synthetic uppers Weight: 1 lb. pr. CLOSEOUTS . China. Size Euro (US): 37 (5) 38 (5 ) 38 (6) 39 (6 ) 39 (6 -7) 40 (7) 40 (7 ) 41 (8) 41 (8-8 ) 42 (8 ) 42 (9) 43 (9 ) 43 (9 -10) 44 (10) 44 (10 ) 46 (12 ) 47 (13) Climbing and other related activities are inherently dangerous; anyone purchasing or using equipment for this purpose is personally responsible for getting proper instruction on its correct and safe use.
- Sierra Trading Post refers to the unisex version
On Sale. Free Shipping. Montrail Magnet Climbing Shoe - Vegan (Spring 2008) Specifications for the Magnet by Montrail Weight: 7 oz./213 g. (size 39) Stick Gryptonite HT for unearthly stick - Stick heel hooks - Stick toe scums - Stick Anywhere Fit Custom-moldable over your toes Solid asymmetrical power Modest camber Plush and narrow heel Design CTX over the toes CTX under the toes CTX in the heels HF structure over comfortable synthetic Animal High performance Bouldering Sport climbing Training Standard setting Rad trad
- Moosejaw refers to the unisex version