For 7 years, I've used this for all three functions,…
Source: bought it new
Price Paid: ~30 cdn
For 7 years, I've used this for all three functions, belay, rappel, and in guide position. Love it! Except...
- Three positions
- Long life
- Release for guide position isn't the safest idea
I've used this device for at least 7 years and do love it. I've taken my time growing into it and will always have one on my harness. I love using it on multi pitches as it is a very fast switch from guide to standard belay as your climber passes.
The drawback is I don't like the release for guide position. Meaning the release when belaying up my climber and (for some reason) there is a need to lower. A small lower of a few centimetres is fine by me but the control for a longer release is not great.
After some experiences this spooks me and I've decided it is not the safest way to lower. So I avoid it. I carry a piece of extra gear to change over to a lowering system and everybody gets out alive - hence the star and a half penalty.
I highly recommend this piece of kit but with caution that a buyer know a little extra when deciding to put this into use.
It covers a good diameter range and it's a solid tool.
Price Paid: around 35 EU
It covers a good diameter range and it's a solid tool. Light, easy to use, multipurpose tool. I use it for alpine climbing and mountaineering when double ropes are needed.
You can belay and rappel with this one and it has an auto block mode for belaying one/two seconds. It has three friction levels.
One minus would be the fact that is difficult to lower the second while in auto blocking mode.
Here's what other sites are saying:
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- Massey's Outfitters
Given that the belay is the critical link to safe climbing, the Petzl Reverso takes the process to the next level in simplicity and reliability. When belaying from above, and attached directly to an anchor's power point, this unique device is auto locking in the event of a catch. Offering independent belaying of two simul-climbing seconds, the auto locking feature requires amazingly minimal hand management. Good for single or double rope technique, the Reverso keeps rope separate for easier clipping off at alternate points, avoids crossing of line while rappelling, and does not twist the rope. Grooved spacers at the break over point provide excellent control for rappelling, lowering, or power belaying the leader. Designed for all styles of climbing, this multipurpose tool is a must have.
- Altrec Outdoors
Assorted Colors, Sorry No Choice. The Petzl Reverso is light, strong, and versatile. Its unique design allows it to be used for belaying a leader, 2 seconds (at the same time) and rappelling. This device is made with auto-braking when belaying 1 or 2 seconds as a specific function. Works with 8mm -11mm ropes. Weight: 2.8 oz.
The Petzl Reverso is a belay device for the leader or the second, and a descender. For use with ropes from 8 mm to 11 mm used single or double.Multipurpose device: belaying the leader, one or more seconds, or as a descender.Attachment point for direct attachment to belay (auto-braking belaying of one or more seconds).Separation of ropes for easier clipping of alternate running belays and avoiding crossing of the ropes when abseiling.Does not twist the ropes.Technical specifications : Can be used with: 8-9 mm double dynamic rope, or 10-11mm single dynamic rope.Weight: 81 g.
The Petzl Reverso Belay Device uses a unique design to attach directly to an anchor's power point to provide a self-locking catch when you belay one or two climbers from above. When used in this mode, the Reverso Belay Device allows you to eat, drink, tie your shoes, and take some pictures while providing your second with a completely safe catch. Of course, this Petzl belay device works for belaying the leader as well, whether the climbing takes place on twin 8mm ropes or a single 11mm rope. The Reverso's incredible versatility makes it a great choice for multi-pitch climbs and a top pick of guides everywhere.