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When the going turns tricky and the only cracks you can find are too narrow for conventional nuts, it's time to pull out the micro wires. It's always better to have something, however small, between you and the ground.IMP stands for Immaculate Marginal Protection - a neat little acronym, but one which fits perfectly.IMP runners can never be considered as 'trainstoppers', at least not in the same way that a well placed Wallnut might be. But they can give unexpected holding power in marginal placements, particularly if you cluster the placements and equalise them so that the load is spread evenly.DMM has given them a special aluminium swage which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide. This means the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides. The swage is colour coded too, so you'll always pick the right one.Obviously these are quite a specialist nut, but anybody pushing into the extreme grades should consider them as an essential addition to their rack.
IMP's (Immaculate Marginal Protection) are 'brass' micro wires that have a regular taper. They are the ideal basis for any experienced leader's rack of micro gear. The heads are machined on a new 9 axis CNC from a copper alloy that has very specific properties and a carefully controlled hardness; when developing these nuts we gradually honed in on an alloy and a hardness that allowed both good bite and also a good resistance to shear forces - this way the nuts lock into the rock well and also resist being pulled through the placement. The heads are then silver soldered onto stainless steel wire and every unit is proof loaded to 75% of its rated strength. We have developed and built a custom, induction heated silver soldering system that allows us to accurately control the amount of heat applied to each unit during the soldering process - an essential step in ensuring consistency in the final product. These wires benefit from a colour coded alloy swage that is only dinked on one side i.e. one wire runs free so that the head is always loaded optimally when it holds a fall. The colour coded swage helps with selecting the right size first time. These little units come in five sizes and are available either individually or in a variety of sets. #1: 4g/4kN/Blue #2: 8g/5kN/Red #3: 10g/5kN/Grey #4: 13g/7kN/Purple #5: 16g/7kN/Green Note that this item of climbing safety equipment is non-returnable. Please call us toll free at 877-236-8428 or e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org with any questions.
DMM's IMP stands for Immaculate Marginal Protection, and these Brass Nuts go in clean and come out strong. Choose from among the 5 sizes and know you're grabbing the appropriate one each time - identify each by the color-coded swage treatment on the stainless wires.
- Mountain Gear
Named DMM's Brass Immaculate Marginal Protection Nut Set, the I. M. P. pro boasts full strength ratings at low weights. When you inevitably have to make a desperate clip, let your shakes subside with the knowledge that these color-coded wires are easily identifiable for quick placement. Slightly concaved faces make these pro pieces extra secure and ready to catch, while a double reverse taper resists rotating or wiggling.
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