DMM Revolver

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The Revolver deserves to be a lot more popular. Its…

Rating: rated 4.5 of 5 stars
Price Paid: $26

The Revolver deserves to be a lot more popular. Its ostensible exorbitant price is misleading as the 'biner will almost certainly pay for itself in extended rope life if you do much toproping and/or lowering.

What it is:
A carabiner with a rolling bearing in the basket. This bearing greatly reduces biner/rope friction.

Advantageous uses:

Top roping and lowering. I haven't seen any data on this issue, but my gut feeling is that regular use of the Revolver in this capacity would at least double the life of a rope which is subjected to a lot of this one-pitch action.

Clip in point for directional pieces. Allows use of a short runner on a directional.

Clip in point for high rope drag potential pieces such as at the start of a traverse or downclimb.

Clip in point for a the "fall piece" when working a route. Pulling oneself back up to the high point is much easier when the pulley point is a Revolver.

Doubles as a pulley in those situations where one would be handy -- hauling, crevasse rescue.

Disadvantages:
Expensive (but you probably don't need more than one or two on your rack) and relatively heavy. Also, it so reduces systemic friction that a light belayer could have trouble controlling a heavy climber; in this situation either anchor the belayer or don't use a Revolver.

The side of the basket, immediately adjacent to the bearing seems to wear more quickly than you would want it to. This is somewhat mitigated by the fact the the 'biner is thicker at this point.

DMM is set to release locking Revolvers which will be even more expensive and heavier, but that much safer, esp. for topropng.

Where to Buy

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Manufacturer's Description

Visit DMM's Revolver page.

Retailers' Descriptions

Here's what other sites are saying:

A small pulley in the basket end the DMM Revolver Carabiner reduces friction as your rope runs through it. This means that you won't feel like you're dragging a tug boat line as you're making the last few moves on your rope-stretching project. The Revolver Carabiner can also be used for light hauling and rescues, making it a versatile addition to any climber's rack.

- Backcountry.com

The frictional drag that a rope can exert on you particularly on a long and winding pitch can be so strong as to actually make upward progress almost impossible Sure if youve had the foresight to extend that crucial runner below the roof with a long sling youre halfway there but once youre trucking up the final headwall forearms dangerously pumped and a few more runners placed here and there as the line of the route twists about it feels like youre dragging an elephant behind youDMMs answer to the epic rope drag scenario was to look at the hardware end of the system They decided to fit a pulley roller into the apex of a biner A simple but extremely effective solution to an age old problem In practice a Revolver placed at changes of direction on a long pitch can prevent that heavy harness feelingThe Revolver also has a further interesting function it can be used in rescue situations as a pulley And for added security there are locking versions available Were not suggesting that you should climb exclusively on Revolver quickdraws far from it but it does make sense to have at least a couple on your rackNote that this item of climbing safety equipment is nonreturnable Please call us toll free at 8772368428 or email bentgatebentgatecom with any questions

- Bentgate.com

Reduce friction in your lead rope system with the patented revolving roller design of the DMM Revolver carabiner. The benefit is a lessened load from rope mass and less drag from protection.

- Mountain Gear

Working out that a rope is the heaviest gear on your rack, the DMM Revolver Carabiner sets out to reduce rope drag on your lead climb.

- EMS