Price Paid: $26
The Revolver deserves to be a lot more popular. Its ostensible exorbitant price is misleading as the 'biner will almost certainly pay for itself in extended rope life if you do much toproping and/or lowering.
What it is:
A carabiner with a rolling bearing in the basket. This bearing greatly reduces biner/rope friction.
Top roping and lowering. I haven't seen any data on this issue, but my gut feeling is that regular use of the Revolver in this capacity would at least double the life of a rope which is subjected to a lot of this one-pitch action.
Clip in point for directional pieces. Allows use of a short runner on a directional.
Clip in point for high rope drag potential pieces such as at the start of a traverse or downclimb.
Clip in point for a the "fall piece" when working a route. Pulling oneself back up to the high point is much easier when the pulley point is a Revolver.
Doubles as a pulley in those situations where one would be handy -- hauling, crevasse rescue.
Expensive (but you probably don't need more than one or two on your rack) and relatively heavy. Also, it so reduces systemic friction that a light belayer could have trouble controlling a heavy climber; in this situation either anchor the belayer or don't use a Revolver.
The side of the basket, immediately adjacent to the bearing seems to wear more quickly than you would want it to. This is somewhat mitigated by the fact the the 'biner is thicker at this point.
DMM is set to release locking Revolvers which will be even more expensive and heavier, but that much safer, esp. for topropng.
Where to Buy
Here's what other sites are saying:
Reduce friction in your lead rope system with the patented revolving roller design of the DMM Revolver carabiner. The benefit is a lessened load from rope mass and less drag from protection.
- Mountain Gear
A small pulley in the basket end the DMM Revolver Carabiner reduces friction as your rope runs through it. This means that you won't feel like you're dragging a tug boat line as you're making the last few moves on your rope-stretching project. The Revolver Carabiner can also be used for light hauling and rescues, making it a versatile addition to any climber's rack.
Working out that a rope is the heaviest gear on your rack, the DMM Revolver Carabiner sets out to reduce rope drag on your lead climb.
Description of DMM Revolver CarabinerThe Revolver has a lot to answer for It is not just that its introduction two years ago brought a completely new take on the way carabiners work, but its construction set the standard and style of all our carabiners for the future. The whole I Beam construction of our latest range stems from this one design. DMM wanted to lighten this carabiner substantially so that the benefits from the roller werent compromised by being too heavy. By hot forging the back, creating lightening panels DMM was able to achieve this, and also create a very unique and stylish look which has become the hall mark of all DMM hardware recently. Even the latest Ice tools the Rebel and Anarchist benefit from this technology.So two years down the line climbers are now more conversant with what the Revolver will do and the benefits it delivers. So what does it do In simple terms the carabiner uses rolling friction rather than sliding friction as in a normal carabiner when the rope runs over the carabiner bar. In this case the rope rolls over the pulley wheel which means much less friction is created. Less friction means less force holding the climber back which makes upward progress a lot easier.Imagine a longer route where you have placed a number of runners, the benefits are obvious to see. The benefits are even more apparent when sudden changes of direction are encountered. such as when your route traverses or goes over a roof or bulge, these are the placements where you will get most benefits in terms of reducing friction.However, there are other important factors to consider too. Since the rope rolls over the roller there will be less wear and tear on your rope which will increase its working life considerably. Also, by reducing the friction the forces involved when a climber falls are more evenly distributed throughout the system, resulting in less force being inflicted on the last piece of protection placed. If this last piece is marginal, it could be a very real benefit.Lastly, the Revolver also offers you options in terms of rigging hauling systems or improvised rescue, as it works just like a small pulley, making this carabiner a very versatile piece of kit.The roller itself is made of 7075 and blends smoothly into the back of the carabiner to encourage the rope to run correctly. Inside the roller is a dry tube Igus bearing which in turn is supported by a high tensile stainless sleeve over a high tensile stainless spindle. The whole assembly runs very smoothly and the sealed bearing tubes as it wears. It is also very strong, and the spindle will not deform until a force approaching 10 to 12 kN is generated.Carry two or three on your rack and use them as described above, enjoy the benefits of less friction, less rope drag, and be comforted by the fact that you are also carrying a couple of pullies with you for emergencies.FeaturesWeight 50gColor BLTStrength Gate Closed 24kNStrength Gate Open 7kNGate Opening 24mmRope Bearing Surface Width 10mm
- US Outdoor Store