La Sportiva Mythos
Use: Trad, Cracks, All day, Gym
Break-in Period: about 2 wks
Price Paid: $125
I have been climbing for three years and I split my time between trad, sport, and bouldering. I bought the Mythos a year ago before a trip out to Indian Creek for the splitter cracks. I sized them a touch big for long days of jamming. Since then these have become my main shoes indoors and out, performing on vertical to slab to gym bouldering. I have found the rubber to be as sticky as any other La Sportiva shoe and they do smear very well. The lacing allows for great adjustability to ones foot.
A note on sizing: these shoes depending on how you size them can do any type of climbing except steep stuff and micro cracks. Size them small and tight and they are great for edging, vertical, and slab. If you size them a touch large they are great all day trad and crack climbing shoes. So it all depends on how you size them.
Break-in Period: 4-6 climbs
Price Paid: n/a
Ahh the Mythos. Perhaps my favorite climbing shoe of all time. By far the most comfortable shoe on the market. If you size it small enough, it is one of the best performing too. These are always in my pack for bouldering, slabs, cracks, and moderate face climbs. The sensitivity of these shoes are phenomenal. Also the new XS grip is the best rubber on the market, I prefer it over stealth c4 because it lasts longer and is stickier. The leather on these is the softest in the climbing shoe world, giving them the best comfort and break in capabilites. The soft leather streaches to your foot. It does stretch about a size, so buy these mothers tight!
Price Paid: $100
I have had these shoes for two years, and they are pretty good shoes. I was hoping for them to be a little more sticky.
Fit is like a glove, they form to your feet nicely.
Not very sticky, especially on cold days.
Break-in Period: 20+ hours
Price Paid: $100
I've gone through four pairs of Mythos, some with 1-2 resoles (with Stealth rubber -- BIG improvement!). They're a good all-day shoe, great for cracks and decent edging too. Definitely NOT an aggressive sport or bouldering shoe however. The rubber tends to wear out quickly in the front of the toe in particular, and even new isn't really that sticky. In fact, the rubber can get very hard and slippery after a while, worse than most shoes.
They stretch a LOT. My foot is size 9, my first Mythos were size 8 and they were quickly unusably large. I went to 6.5 which were tight and stretched to be comfortable even for long pitches or sessions. When I got my third pair I got the smallest shoe that I could physically cram my foot into, size 5, although initially the pain was too much to even stand on. Nonetheless they ultimately stretched to remain snug even in their old age and they are the ones I still use from time to time.
Moral: get them 2-4 full sizes small. This is not a performance shoe and the rubber is sub-par. But they are well made, they resole well, they are comfortable, and are still my favorites for long days of easy to moderate climbing. But if you're going to push yourself hard, get a better shoe.
Use: long climbing days
Break-in Period: 1 week
Price Paid: $70
Comfortable shoe, very comfortable, nice for cracks, multi pitches or long climbs, but not very sticky, and not so great for face sport climbs.