Scarpa Charmoz GTX
Materials: Gore-tex, synthetic, vibram
Use: Alpine, day hikes, scrambling, via ferrata, soloing
Break-in Period: 10 days
Price Paid: £230
Bought these to do the Cuilin Ridge in September (it was windy, a bit rainy but 12 to 15 degrees Celsius). The climbing zone on the toe provides surprisingly good adhesion when smearing and the boot is good for edging, obviously not as dexterous as a rock boot, and the toe does visibly wear quickly.
I wanted a sole with good grip on wet rock as previous boots with Vibram soles were like ice skates when it got wet. Tie sole on the Charmoz is Vibram (the same as on the bright blue La Sportiva Trango) and it sticks well on wet rock and general rocky, grassy, muddy terrain. I have walked up streams and through bogs, and through torrential rain in these and had no leakage.
The only criticism I have is that they are very warm and your feet get hot - we all know how breathable Gore-tex is - about as breathable as a bin liner. After 3 consecutive days walking and scrambling 10 hours a day (carrying pack and rack), my feet ached a bit, I had small blisters on little toe (compeed sorted that), but feet were sweaty and getting soft, so had to change to approach shoes after that.
They'll be a great boot for when it gets colder though.
Use: Alpine climbs up to Grade D and Scotish Grade 4, also ideal for Via Ferrata
Break-in Period: One day on hills
Weight: 3 pounds
Price Paid: £162
I bought this boot to tackle some classic routes in the Alps. It was ideal for rock routes such as the Dent du Geant and excelled when taken up Mont Blanc, as it is so light but still packs a lot of warmth. Very comfortable and brilliant for all but advanced alpine climbing. Some heavier B3 boots may be more versatile in that they can be used for easy-hard grades, but the Charmoz is great for anything up to French D or Grade 4 Scottish.
Materials: gore tex
Use: Heavy pack
Break-in Period: 2 months
Weight: 3 lbs
Price Paid: £160
I bought these boots for a forthcoming Haute Route treck. They were light and I felt I could move quickly with them but the first encounter with wet conditions proved they were not waterproof at all. As can be imagined I was completely disappointed when they were returned to the shop, but I did receive a full refund.
Where to Buy
The Scarpa Charmoz GTX is not available from the stores we monitor.
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Here's what other sites are saying:
The Scarpa Charmoz GTX mountaineering boots are made for high-altitude enthusiasts looking for lightweight support and comfort while conquering peaks. Nylon L-Tech uppers are reinforced with Lorica(R) synthetic leather to offer long-lasting protection and abrasion-resistance. Gore-Tex(R) waterproof membranes let feet breathe while protecting them from the elements, keeping them dry and comfortable. Articulated ankles allow freedom of movement; friction zones on soles and full rubber rand on uppers give edging performance. EVA midsoles supply lightweight cushioning; nylon composite supports offer stiffness without excessive weight. Vibram(R) Mulaz outsoles offer excellent grip, stability and durability; high rubber rands also provide protection against abrasion. Heels are reinforced with polyurethane for enhanced crampon fit and performance. The Scarpa Charmoz GTX mountaineering boots are compatible with hybrid crampon binding systems. Closeout.
- REI refers to the men's version
The Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Men's Boot is a lightweight technical, comfortable boot designed to lighten your load and quicken your pace when alpine climbing this is one of the lightest and most versatile alpine boots available.
- CampSaver.com refers to the men's version
On Sale. Free Shipping. Scarpa Men's Charmoz GTX Boot DECENT FEATURES of the Scarpa Men's Charmoz GTX Boot One of the lightest alpine climbing boots - just over 3 lbs per pair Articulated Tri-Flex ankle Low-profile lacing Synthetic L-Tech uppers reinforced with Lorica Gore-Tex for confidence in wet conditions Semi-automatic crampon-compatible Friction zone and full rubber rand for climbing performance The SPECS of the Scarpa Men's Charmoz GTX Boot Upper: Nylon L-Tech and Lorica Lining: Gore-Tex - Performance Comfort Insole: Pro-Fiber Midsole: EVA Sole: Vibram Mulaz Last: FT Weight: 1/2 pair: 1 lb 10 oz / 740 g
- Moosejaw refers to the men's version
The Scarpa Men's Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots excel on varied alpine terrain where a pitch of snow is followed by a pitch of rock which precedes two pitches of ice. Waterproof breathable Gore-Tex inserts keep your feet dry as you posthole to the base of your route. The 3/4-length shanks allow comfortable walking on the approach hike. Vibram Mulaz soles give the Charmoz GTX Boots great traction on both snow and the techy rock climbing that gets you up the first few hundred feet. Strap a pair of Newmatic (semi-automatic) crampons to these Scarpa boots, and their rigid soles and flexible uppers give you the support and precision you need for grade 5 ice and hard mixed climbing.
- Backcountry.com refers to the men's version