Belay/Rappel Devices

Featured review by DtEW

The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. What this addition achieves is threefold:1) For belaying a second, the ATC-Guide can now be set-up to brake automatically, much like the Petzl Reverso/Reversino. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay.2) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices.3) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which...

Read more: Black Diamond ATC-Guide reviews (8)

Featured review by FromSagetoSnow

This style of belay devices is named after this product. It's the Q-tip of climbing.

I think my ATC came with a big belay locking carabiner back when I bought it. This was my first belay device ever. I learned it in just under a minute, my kids know how to use it, and I am sure that, with a little extra effort, my dog could belay with it in a pinch.  The whole class of tube-style belay devices are called collectively, by many climbers, ATCs. That speaks a lot for its popularity. I have had salty climbers tell me that the ATC contributed to the death of the figure eight device in sport climbing more than anything else.

Read more: Black Diamond ATC reviews (4)

Featured review by Chris Vern

I think it's best to learn using a ATC-type devise, but once you've mastered the basic technique move on to the grigri! It's right at home when belaying someone heavier than you or when your forearms are bumpin from the route you just spent 10 minutes sending and your partner wants an immediate go to show you a "different way". Lowering takes a little time to learn smoothly as you can't feel it as much as an ATC but you catch on pretty quick. If you're still worried, Petzl makes a biner with a friction spur on the side that you clip the rope into when lowering for that extra bit of stopping power (I think the biner is called a frieno or something).

Read more: Petzl Grigri reviews (7)

Reviewed by Unknown Caver

Works best with flexible rope, the Stop locks down on the rope if your hand comes off the lever. Safe device with a long history of use in Europe for caving.

I used the Stop in Europe to descend various caves over the course of a month. It is a good device, and allows for a free hand to clip into a belay station on rappel. This is very nice since the ropes in Europe are generally re-anchored multiple times on a rappel.   It is also fairly compact and lightweight compared to a stainless rappel rack. Unfortunately, I don't get to use it much, as most U.S. caving ropes are stiff and don't work well in the device.   Tip: Make sure to close the device for storage or while caving so you don't accidentally bend the cover plate.

Read more: Petzl Stop review (1)

Reviewed by Jelle S

It is a good belay device, with a modern and well designed look. It has all the features you may expect from a versatile piece of gear. The go-to item, for people trying to avoid the Petzl Reverso wave.

It is a good belay device, with a modern and well designed look. It has all the features you may expect from a versatile piece of gear. The go to item, for people trying to avoid the Petzl Reverso wave. Positive aspects: To take a head point start in this review, I would like to take up its primary advantages: It’s a Petzl Reverso copy, so you know it will do well. The design of the Piu 2 is just a bit different, and apart from the brand, you would not even notice the difference, Until you take a more closer look and make a side by side comparison.

Read more: Cassin Piu 2 review (1)

Featured review by MtnHund

For my first purchase of a belay device, I wanted something versatile, but user-friendly. Having only used the Petzl GriGri in the past, I needed something light weight and affordable, functional for both top-rope and leading, but intuitive for a novice. After discussing the options with some friends at my local REI, I was excited and most interested in the SMART. When my Dividend came out, it was mine. The first time using it at my local climbing gym, I noticed that there was a learning curve, but it was very steep.

Read more: Mammut Smart reviews (3)

Featured review by Dario DiGiulio

This device does everything. I have not encountered a single situation in climbing that the Mega Jul could not handle smoothly and easily. It can and will replace basically anything else you currently use as a belay/rappel device.

EASE OF USE: Everything that this device claims to do, it does. It is perfect for belaying a leader, feeding out rope effortlessly. When used for toproping, the tuber-mode is still smooth and just as simple as your ATC. Belaying a second is also very easy, and the diagrams on the side of the device allows for anyone to use it, even your partner who is new to the device. That said, I would not recommend going out and relying entirely on this device without receiving some instruction online first.

Read more: Edelrid Mega Jul reviews (2)

Reviewed by G00se

My "go-to" rappel device.

I have bounced many pits on this rack, and it's still going strong. There are different kinds of racks on the market. As a 6'2", 190lb caver, I wanted a rack with lots of friction options. CMI uses a stainless steel frame with aluminum bars. The top bar is solid, extending the life of this bar (which takes the most wear). The other bars are half channels, reducing weight. All bars can be replaced as needed. I no longer use the rescue bar with the extension, as I've never needed that much friction.

Read more: CMI Rescue Rack review (1)

Featured review by Gilipollas

Excellent auto locking belay device.

The Grigri is ubiquitous, you see them everywhere you go, and for good reason.  It's just about as good as a belay device can get for toproping and sport climbing.  It's expensive, but worth the price in the end for the ease of use and the peace of mind. First, it's easy to use. It has engraved simple instructions on the side of the device, and it's easy to see how it works with the locking cam if you pull up on the climber's side of the rope. Just run the rope through in the indicated direction, swivel the faceplate into place, lock with a locking biner to your belay loop, and it's ready to go.

Read more: Petzl Grigri 2 reviews (2)