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SCARPA Earns Only 5-star Rock & Ice Ratings

Earning the only five-star scores out of 20 climbing shoes tested, SCARPA’s new Mago and Booster rock shoes both chalked up perfect ratings in Rock and Ice magazine’s 2007 climbing shoe review. In addition, the Stix, also from SCARPA’s new six-shoe rock line for 2007, earned a four-star rating.

These distinctions follow two other key awards for the new SCARPA rock line in recent months. The Spectro, an edging shoe from the same line, won a ‘Best in Gear’ Award from Rock and Ice in March. The Mago also won Climbing Magazine’s ‘Editor’s Choice’ Award in May, the only lace-up rock shoe to earn that distinction this year.

The Mago lace-up, Booster Velcro shoe, and Stix slipper, as well as a the Rockette, a women’s version of the Booster, introduce a new technology from SCARPA called X-tension, which was created by legendary rock shoe designer and SCARPA Climbing Line Manager Heinz Mariacher. X-tension is a new, three-dimensional approach to supporting a climber’s foot. The design uses rands that are shaped in an “X” under the arch and tightened to different tensions to support the foot as well as focus power to the most appropriate parts of the shoe. X-tension not only offers an uptick in performance compared to toe-power shoes in the same class, but it’s also more comfortable than other aggressively downturned climbing shoes.

Of the X-tension technology, Rock and Ice Senior Editor Andrew Bisharat wrote that it “all but eliminates any dead spots in the shoe.”

“The Mago is one of the best shoes I’ve ever worn for sport climbing,” he wrote. “The shoe turns down for toe power, but it also performs well on smears and edges.”

Editor-in-Chief Duane Raleigh wrote that the Booster “is the best SCARPA rock shoe I have worn. It fit so well that I would have sworn that it was actually made for me. …. Although it has a radical camber and twist, I didn’t mind, and I usually don’t like those qualities in a shoe.”

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